Unspoilt paradise islands - Rarotonga

Rarotonga

Where: The Cook Islands, South Pacific.

See: To get an idea of traditional life on Rarotonga, the main island of the Cooks, head to the Cook Islands Cultural Village. The three-and-a-half hour tour takes in presentations of all manner of skills and crafts, from coconut husking and carving to weaving and costume making. There's also an emphasis on the history of the islands, plus details on Maori medicine. To finish off the tour, there's a good, old-fashioned feast packed with local delicacies and accompanied by a song and dance show. And given that eating, singing and dancing are pretty much the national sports of the Cooks, this is pretty darned good.

Do: If Rarotonga has one man that qualifies for local legend status, it is Pa. In his sixties and sporting fabulously messy white dreadlocks, he is a naturalist (and claims to have cures and balms for a wide range of illnesses). He also leads the cross-island jungle trek, of which the first part – a climb up the mountain – is absolutely murderous. Pa does it in bare feet, just to make you feel really pathetic. The views from the top and lunch by the rainforest stream make it all worth it though.

Hang out: That Trader Jack's (www.traderjackscookislands.com) looks like an old South Pacific shack comes as no real surprise – it has been repeatedly blown down by cyclones over the years. However, the New Zealander owner is nothing if not stubborn, and he keeps rebuilding it with wood and corrugated iron, ready for the next big storm to take its toll. Right on the sea front at Avarua Harbour, Trader Jack's is a local institution, where tourists, local workers and government bigwigs mingle in the bar and restaurant. The food's very good too.

Stay: The Muri Lagoon is the ideal lazy hideaway spot. Get a kayak and a snorkel out, and you've got a day's entertainment wrapped up. Both are available for free to guests of either the Muri Beach Resort (www.muribeachresort.com) or the Pacific Resort (www.pacificresort.com). Either one is a good choice – great facilities, beachfront location and good restaurants.

More information: http://www.cookislands.travel