First and foremost, Australia is massive. It is vast and varied with sometimes incomprehensible distances between locations. If you are used to countries where townships are a mere bus ride apart, then it's time to reset your sense of geography. While Australia's urban areas are sprawling and densely populated, towns in the outback can be many hours apart. With this in mind, it is important to be realistic when setting an itinerary. A month or two in Australia will give you a good look at the major sights, but a week would be more of a challenge - you're not going to see Sydney, the Great Barrier Reef, the Outback and the Tasmanian wilderness in seven days (unless transit lounges are your bag). So tailor your trip to suit your time constraints and your interests and try to cluster what you wish to see. Remember that flying from the west coast to the east coast of Australia is almost identical to flying from Los Angeles to New York (and a lot more expensive). Here are a couple of sample itineraries for a week-long stay in the Lucky Country.
Kick into Sydney and tear it up for 2 days of pure city living, shopping along Oxford St, posing in Bondi and sinking a few schooners in the many great old Sydney pubs. Then start heading north by flying to Byron Bay for a couple of days of beach-bumming and chakra-realigning. And to leave the sweetest taste in your mouth, push on even further up north and spend a couple of days diving on the sparkling Barrier Reef.
Fly into Melbourne, Australia's second-largest city situated in the southeast corner of the country. It's known for its love of the arts, so spend two days chowing down a steady diet of art, theatre, film and cafe-hopping. Then take an easy drive through the country for an overnight stay in Daylesford: spa-central. Unwind in the country environs and soak in the natural hot spas. Head back to Melbourne for a flight west to Adelaide where you can spend your final couple of days floating from winery to winery in the lush Barossa Valley with your nose firmly wedged into a wine glass.
Surf in Sydney, dive the Great Barrier Reef, ski the Snowy Mountains - Australia will exhaust and exhilarate with its adventure-driven landscape.
The Daintree is the accessible section of breathtakingly beautiful coastal lowland rainforest in the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. This dense, lush area hosts amazing pockets of biodiversity with unique swamp and mangrove forest habitats, eucalypt woodlands, native birds and tropical rainforest.
(Two hours north of Cairns via the Cook Highway)
questions@daintreerainforest.com www.daintreerainforest.com tel info
air to Cairns
bus to Daintree
This is one of the world's most spectacular coastal drives, especially between Anglesea and Apollo Bay. Contrasting the fabulous surfer-style beaches is the lush green of the Otway Ranges, the dramatic limestone cliffs of Port Campbell and the pretty and fashionable town of Lorne.
The incredible Great Ocean Road (B100) cuts its breathtaking path from Torquay to Warrnambool, every fresh twist and turn inspiring passengers to exclaim 'Oh!', and frustrated drivers to say, 'What? What's it look like?'. The stunning stretch of road attracts seven million snap-happy visitors annually and is one of the world's most spectacular coastal drives, especially between Anglesea and Apollo Bay. Beyond it, the thrashing Shipwreck Coast (from Princetown to Port Fairy) and its dramatic beachscapes inspire spooky stories of ghosts from wrecked vessels that haunt the area.
B100
(off Princes Hwy, Geelong)
www.greatoceanrd.org.au tel info 03 5237 6529
train V/Line to Geelong
bus to Torquay
car from Melbourne or Geelong
Tasmania's best-known national park has spectacular mountain peaks, deep gorges, lakes and wild moorlands. It's one of the areas affected most by glacial activity in Australia. There are plenty of day walks, but it's the spectacular 80.5km (50mi) walk, known as The Overland Track, between the Cradle Valley and Cynthia Bay regions that has turned this park into a bushwalkers' mecca.
(Derwent Bridge)
cradle@parks.tas.gov.au
www.parks.tas.gov.au/natparks/cradle/
tel info 03 6492 1133
tel info 03 6289 1172
air Launceston or Hobart
bus to Cradle Valley or Derwent Bridge
On Tasmania's beautiful east coast, the peninsula is part of Freycinet National Park and features secluded beaches and coves, rare plant, bird and animal life and excellent bushwalks. A particularly popular walk is the return trek to Wineglass Bay. The park has several camp sites and lodges.
Coles Bay
(Approx 3hr from either Hobart or Launceston)
freycinet@parks.tas.gov.au www.parks.tas.gov.au/natparks/freycinet/ tel info 03 6256 7000
air Hobart or Launceston
road to Coles Bay
The Barossa Valley is arguably the best-known wine-producing region in Australia. It's a beautiful, well-tended area with over 100 wine producers, around 70 of which encourage casual visits for tasting and cellar sales. To fully appreciate the area, get off the main road and take the narrow backroads between settlements.
The gently sloping valley was settled in 1842 by German settlers fleeing religious persecution in Prussia and Silesia, and its distinct Germanic flavour remains.
The central town is Tanunda. Adelaide is just over an hour's drive to the south-west. Note that the least scenic time to visit is between July and October, because the vines are heavily pruned during the winter months. The busiest months are from March to May when the grapes are harvested.
There are several other wine-growing regions in the state, notably the south-eastern corner around Penola, Coonawarra and Padthaway; in the Clare Valley, north of the Barossa; and around McLaren Vale on the Fleurieu Peninsula.
(Barossa Valley)
info@barossa-region.org
www.barossa-region.org
tel info 08 8563 0600
tel info 1300 852 982
air to Adelaide
road to Barossa
The Snowy Mountains is the highest section of Australia's Great Dividing Range. Kosciusko National Park covers most of the mountains and includes ski resorts, rugged alpine scenery, caves, glacial lakes and forests. Although renowned as a winter playground, the park is also popular with bushwalkers in summer.
Ski resorts include Thredbo, Perisher Valley, Smiggins Hole and Mt Blue Cow. Mt Kosciusko is the highest peak at 2228m (7308ft). The main town in the region is Jindabyne, situated just outside the park boundary on the edge of a beautiful lake.
(Kosciusko National Park)
www.snowymountains.com.au
tel info 02 6450 5600
tel info 1800 004 439
air to Cooma
road to Snowy Mountains
bus to Cooma
Bronzed surfers and wine-quaffing city slickers rub shoulders in this buzzing tourist hub that offers some of the best surfing in Australia and some of its most delicious wines. Wild coastal scenery, sophisticated restaurants, internationally acclaimed vineyards and a string of fascinating limestone caves are real crowd-pleasers.
(10km (6.2mi) from Busselton)
www.margaret-river-online.com.au tel info 08 9757 2911
air to Perth
car via the Coast Road
car via the South Western Highway
air to Margaret River
train to Bunbury
Kakadu National Park is a natural marvel encompassing a variety of habitats, a mass of wildlife and some of Australia's best Aboriginal rock art. It stretches more than 200km (124mi) south from the coast and 100km (62mi) from east to west. It is World Heritage-listed for both its natural and cultural importance (a rare distinction).
(Northern Territory)
Kakadunationalpark@deh.gov.au www.ea.gov.au/parks/kakadu/ tel info 08 8938 1121
air to Darwin
bus to Kakadu
Larger than the Great Wall of China and the only living thing visible from space, the Great Barrier Reef is one of the seven wonders of the natural world. The 2000km (1240mi) conglomeration of colourful coral stretches along the Queensland seaboard and makes for some of the most spectacular diving landscape imaginable.
(368km (228mi) north of Brisbane)
www.gbrmpa.gov.au tel info 07 4750 0700
air Cairns
boat Great Barrier Reef
plane to one of the islands
The rugged Kimberley is one of Australia's last frontiers, a little-travelled and very remote area of great rivers, oases and magnificent scenery. It's the quintessential Australian landscape of red earth, rock, gumtrees, crocodiles, wallabies and blue skies. Attractions include the spectacular gorges on the Fitzroy River and Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) National Park.
Halls Creek is the largest town in the Kimberley. Derby, 220km (136mi) away at the mouth of the Fitzroy River, is a useful base for excursions into the area. The most popular time to visit is between April and September. Although the Wet (the rainy season in the north) offers ethereal thunderstorms and a magic carpet of wildflowers, rains make many roads impassable.
(E along Great Northern Hwy)
info@australiasnorthwest.com
www.australiasnorthwest.com
tel info 08 9193 6660
fax info 08 9193 6662
air to Darwin or Broome
road to Kimberley
bus to Kimberley
The Sydney office is located at level 34, Colonial Centre, 52 Martin Pl, in the CBD (02 9231 3455).
112 Empire Cct
Yarralumla
www.japan.org.au tel info 02 6273 3244
The main embassy is situated in Canberra but there is a Sydney office located on the 16th floor of 1 Macquarie Pl, Sydney Cove (02-9247 7521) and a Melbourne office on the 17th floor of 90 Collins St, Melbourne (03-9652 1600).
Commonwealth Ave
Yarralumla
http://bhc.britaus.net/default.asp tel info 02 6270 6666
GALTA can provide a wealth of information about gay and lesbian travel in Australia.
Darlinghurst
www.galta.com.au
This is the best place to get any travel-related shots and medical advice.
428 George St
tel info 02 9221 7133
train Town Hall
Tourism Australia is the government body charged with improving foreign tourist relations. A good place to start some pre-trip research is the commission's website, which has information in 10 languages (including French, German, Japanese and Spanish).
Tower 2, 201 Sussex St
Darling Park
www.australia.com
fax info 02 9331 6469
tel info 02 9360 1111
The Sydney branch of the US Embassy is located at level 59, 19-29 Martin Pl, in the CBD (02 9373 9200) and the Melbourne office is at level 6, 553 St Kilda Rd, Melbourne (03 9526 5900).
21 Moonah Pl
Yarralumla
http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/index.html tel info 02 6214 5600
The nonprofit Conservation Volunteers Australia organises practical conservation projects for volunteers (including overseas visitors) such as tree planting, walking-track construction and flora and fauna surveys. It's an excellent way to get involved with conservation-minded people and visit some interesting areas of the country.
cnr University Dr & Enterprise Gr
(Mt Helen)
www.conservationvolunteers.com.au
tel info 1800 032 501
tel info 03 5330 2600
The Sydney office is located at level 8, 131 Macquarie St, Sydney (02-9241 2542).
111 Empire Ct
Yarralumla
http://thaisydney.idx.com.au tel info 02 6273 1149
For comprehensive information on customs regulations, contact the Australian Customs Service. When entering Australia you can bring most articles in free of duty provided that customs is satisfied they are for personal use and that you'll be taking them with you when you leave. There's a duty-free quota per person of 2250mL of alcohol, 250 cigarettes and dutiable goods up to the value of AUD 900.00 .
10 Cooks River Dr
(NSW)
www.customs.gov.au
tel info 1300 363 263
tel info 02 6275 6666
fax info 02 8339 6714
Reliable information is the key ingredient for travellers with a disability and the best source is Nican. It's an Australia-wide directory providing information on access issues, accessible accommodation, sporting and recreational activities, transport and specialist tour operators.
4/2 Phipps Cl
Deakin
www.nican.com.au
tel info 02 6285 3713
tel info 1800 806 769
In the thick of the Great Dividing Range, the Blue Mountains are a prime example of Australian bush, with gum trees and excellent bushwalking through deep gorges and up majestic peaks. The surreal blue haze that hangs over the region is a fine mist of volatile oil given off by eucalyptus trees.
Katoomba is a major tourist centre, and with its Art Nouveau and Art Deco guesthouses is a cheerful relic of another era. From Echo Point you can gawp at the Three Sisters, a rock formation named for three lasses who were petrified by a sorcerer to protect them from the advances of three sleazy men.
Cairns shines with the carnival atmosphere of travellers all year round and the city is positively booming. In 2003 the foreshore was given a Hollywood makeover, with lagoons and the spanking Pier Marketplace, equipping Cairns to be a truly international tourist destination.
Aside from limitless accommodation and dining options, markets, culture, shopping and seaside atmosphere, Cairns' big drawcard is its access to the outer tentacles of the Great Barrier Reef. It's also a good base to discover Port Douglas, the Atherton Tableland, Cape Tribulation and beyond.
The best news for budget travellers is that you don't have to empty the bank to enjoy Cairns. In the city itself, cosmetic improvements like the glorious swimming lagoon and thick grassy parklands are all free. All this is much more fun with a mate and hooking up with fellow travellers here is a highlight all of its own.
Perth is a vibrant and modern city sitting between the cerulean Indian Ocean and the ancient Darling Ranges. It claims to be the sunniest state capital in Australia, though more striking is its isolation from the rest of the country - Perth is over 4400km (2750mi) from Sydney by road.
It's true that the city centre's skyscrapers dominate a picturesque riverside location. But behind the towering edifices hide a handful of 19th-century buildings and facades, and some saving-grace patches of greenery. But these concerns fade in an instant when you glimpse the famous beaches.
Back in the 1990s, Perth was not exactly known as a party capital. Today it's a different story. The city seems to have been infused with a good dose of joie de vivre. Restaurants are humming and the shopping strips are loud with ka-chings. There are small, laid-back bars in Mt Lawley and sprawling beer gardens in Cottesloe. The UWA Perth International Arts Festival cranks out more arts and fun than you can poke a stick at. And amidst all this, the city's beaches remain unchanged. Welcome to Perth.
Uluru is the most famous icon of the Australian outback and a site of deep cultural significance to the Anangu Aboriginals. The 3.6km (2.2mi)-long rock rises a towering 348m (1141ft) from the pancake-flat surrounding scrub. It is especially impressive at dawn and sunset when the red rock spectacularly changes hue.
A pilgrimage to Uluru and the coronary-inducing scramble to the top was an entrenched Australian ritual, but the Aboriginal owners would prefer visitors not to climb the rock and many visitors are now respecting their wishes. There are walks around the base of the rock which pass caves, rock art and sacred Aboriginal sites. Nearby Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), 32km (20mi) west of Uluru, are equally impressive monoliths and Mt Olga is actually much higher than Uluru. The Valley of the Winds is a worthy 6km (4mi) walking circuit.
Langorously-paced Broome has a distinctly Asian flavour and cosmopolitan atmosphere, making it a consistently popular travellers' centre and a favoured spot for alternative lifestylers and urban burnouts. An upmarket tourism campaign has saved the town from a tacky downfall.
Broome's Asian feel is partly due to its history as a pearling centre and partly because it is twice as far away from Perth, the state capital, as it is from Indonesia. Nearby Cable Beach is now one of the most famous beaches in Australia...and justifiably so.
The major attractions in Broome are its small Chinatown, the 80-year-old open-air Sun Pictures Cinema, the Japanese cemetery, and the dinosaur footprints at Gantheaume Point. Broome is also popular with bird-watchers: the Broome Bird Observatory on Roebuck Bay is one of Australia's top non-breeding grounds for migrant Arctic waders. Swimmers should beware of stinging jellyfish in the water between November and March.
Melbourne is dubbed marvellous for a reason. Healthy hedonism masquerades as high art: Melburnians are equally passionate about football and ballet, fashion and restaurants. They are ravenous for music and hot for theatre. It's a smorgasbord of a city that you'll want to sink your teeth into.
A leafy bayside community on the 'upside-down' Yarra River, Melbourne is, by turns, cosmopolitan, suburban, cultivated, conservative and an avant-garde haven. Visitors come for its shopping, restaurants, nightlife and sporting calendar; most agree that it's one of the world's most liveable cities.
In the last 10 years Melbourne's CBD has undergone a renaissance. Innumerable hip boutiques, restaurants and bars crowd the alleys and Victorian-era arcades off the main streets, and its riverbanks and docklands have been transformed into spruced-up sites for swanky waterside socialising.
Canberra is often described by Australians who haven't been there as a boring town, full of politicians, bureaucrats - and not much else. But those who go there find beautiful galleries and museums clustered around a lake and cupped in bushland.
One of only two capital cities in the world that have been built to a premeditated design, Canberra is rather eerily symmetrical. Placed about its nice, planned combinations of straight and curving streets are the old and new Parliament Houses, the National Gallery, and the National Museum.
Sydney is Australia's oldest city, the economic powerhouse of the nation and the country's capital in everything but name. It's blessed with sun-drenched natural attractions, dizzy skyscrapers, delicious and daring restaurants, superb shopping and friendly folk.
Although it's come a long way from its convict beginnings, Sydney still has a rough and ready energy, and offers an invigorating blend of the old and the new, the raw and the refined. While high culture attracts some to the Opera House, gaudy nightlife attracts others to Kings Cross.
It's a city blessed with long stretches of heavenly beaches, a pleasant climate that sees over 300 sunny days a year, an economy that's stronger than it should be, a stable local government, and a population of open-minded, outgoing entrepreneurial types who are itching to show the whole place off.
Rising from the northern end of Spencer Gulf, in the east of South Australia, and running north for 800km (500mi), the Flinders Ranges are, to many, the epitome of outback Australia. It's a superb area for bushwalks, wildlife and taking in the ever-changing colours of the outback.
In the far north, the mountains are hemmed in by sand ridges and barren salt lakes. The best-known feature of the range is the huge natural basin known as Wilpena Pound, which is ringed by 1000m (3280ft) high cliffs. Other attractions include Alligator Gorge in Mt Remarkable National Park, Brachina Gorge, and the ironstone capped ridge known as the Great Wall of China. Winter is probably the most pleasant time to visit, but the ranges are greenest and carpeted in wildflowers in spring. The most convenient towns are Quorn and Hawker.
The 'capital' of northern Australia is closer to Jakarta than it is to Sydney, and closer to Singapore than it is to Melbourne, so it should come as no surprise that it looks outward to Asia as much as it looks inland to the rest of Australia.
This proximity and familiarity with Australia's northern neighbours is reflected in the town's relaxed, cosmopolitan, tropical atmosphere. In a country that prides itself on its ethnic diversity, Darwin may be the most multicultural city of all.
Darwin is a major stop for travellers and an obvious base for trips to Kakadu and other Top-End natural attractions. It's a tropical oasis, too, with a pleasant harbourside location and plenty of nightlife. Wherever you're travelling to, there's a lot of distance to be covered, and many people rest (and party) a bit in Darwin before leaving.
Christmas is part of the long summer school vacation and during December and January you can be forgiven for thinking that half of Australia is on holiday. This is when accommodation is almost always booked out.
Australia's arts festivals attract culture vultures from all over Australia to see mainstream and fringe drama, dance, music and visual arts. The jewel in Australia's touring rock festival crown is the annual Big Day Out, a day-long showcase of major local and international bands, which hits most major cities in late January. The huge Sydney Festival, which takes up most of January, is the umbrella for a number of events from open air concerts, to street theatre and fireworks. The Adelaide Festival of Arts takes place at the beginning of March in even-numbered years. In the second week of March in odd-numbered years there's Womadelaide, Adelaide's outdoor festival of world music and dance. Melbourne has the International Comedy Festival in April, the world's biggest Writers' Festival in August and the fabulous Melbourne International Arts Festival in October. A couple of festivals to celebrate Aboriginal arts and culture include the Stompen Ground Festival, which is held in Broome in September/October and the Barunga Festival, held 80km (50mi) east of Katherine in June.
Sporty fun includes Darwin's Beer Can Regatta in mid-July, when a series of boat races are held for craft constructed entirely of beer cans, and Alice Springs' Henley-on-Todd Regatta, a boat race 'run' in September on a dry river bed. Other mainstream events include the Sydney to Hobart yacht race (from Boxing Day); the Australian Open tennis championship (Melbourne in January); the Australian Formula One Grand Prix (Melbourne in March); Australian Rules Football (around the country from March to September); and the country-stopping Melbourne Cup on the first Tuesday in November.
Gay festivals include Sydney's massive, outlandish Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras, in February/March, and Melbourne's January Midsumma Festival.