Amsterdam could occupy you for a lifetime, but flying visitors will find the city so compact that even three days can give a rewarding glimpse of its charms. Hire a bike to get that 'Dam feel and speed things up. On the first day, get up early and beat the crowds to the Van Gogh museum so you can have your perfect moment in front of your favourite canvas in peace. Freshen up with a stroll in the Vondelpark and head for a late lunch at Café de Jaren. Take a canal tour and check out the neon-soaked waters of an Amsterdam night.
Start the second day with a leisurely brunch at Café Reibach, then explore the Jordaan before taking in a free concert in the Concertgebouw. Do some fancy shopping on Kalverstraat then recover on the cushions at the Supper Club. If you're feeling energetic, go for a boogie at Melkweg.
It's the last day! Get on your bike and check out as much of the city as possible, from the Begijnhof to the Red Light District to the flower market to the green south. Pop into the Museum Willet-Holthuysen for a taste of what it would have been like to live in one of those regal canal houses, and pull out a pocket picnic to eat in its lovely garden. Spend the afternoon larking around at Artis Zoo before a slap-up dinner at De Belhamel.
Cycling is the main way to move - Amsterdam is flat as, which also makes it perfect for jogging and walking. The Dutch are also into sailing in a big way and windsurfing is almost a national sport. Ice skating is popular if the winter is cold enough to allow it.
If the winter is cold enough, locals skate on frozen canals and the Museumplein pond; if nature doesn't comply, try the Jaap Edenbaan indoor and outdoor rinks instead.
The Vondelpark is an exquisite place for a stroll or a jog, particularly in Spring; if you want more of a serious leg-stretch, the sprawling Amsterdamse Bos is the place to head.
To say that Amsterdammers are avid cyclists is a bit of an understatement. There are some 400km (248mi) of bike paths in the city alone, and nowhere is the humble pushy so revered - cars and pedestrians come a poor second. If you want a local's perspective on the city, hire a bike as fast as you can.
Dutch national pride is pretty low-key except when it comes to football. The national team competes in virtually every World Cup, and passions for the game run so high it's almost scary. Amsterdam's famous team, Ajax (say 'ah-yahks'), plays in the hi-tech Amsterdam ArenA. Hooliganism is not unheard of, but the ArenA has a modern, hi-tech police force, and if you're sitting in the seats (as opposed to standing in the standing sections) you're unlikely to notice crowd trouble.
Elegant, rustic and very chic, Vasso is a great Italian eatery just off hectic Spui. Delicious antipasti and filling pastas are the order of the day, and if you get to mains or dessert, we salute you.
Rozenboomsteeg 10-14
Centrum
tel info 020 626 01 58
Sure it's the place where tourists come when they want a 'quality' local meal. And of course, if you sit in the Rembrandt Room, camera-wielding visitors will lean over you to get a snap. However, no -one in town treats Dutch cuisine quite so well. Book ahead.
Spuistraat 294-302
Centrum
www.thefiveflies.com tel info 020 530 40 60
This is our favourite Chinese restaurant in Amsterdam. It's certainly not for the decor, but we love the brilliantly tasty roast duck and pork, and the fantastic soup they're plonked in. The oysters (steamed) are so famous here there's a book and movie named after them.
Zeedijk 111-113
Centrum
www.namkee.net tel info 020 624 34 70
underground rail Nieuwmarkt
Supperclub is a unique Amsterdam institution, and eating a set menu while propped up in a bed in an all-white room, while any manner of performances go on around you, is either your idea of a dream or a nightmare. Go anyway and be sure to wear nice socks.
Jonge Roelensteeg 21
Medieval Centre
www.supperclub.nl tel info 020 638 05 13
An unrepentantly old-school, open-sandaled type of vegan eatery, De Bolhoed is the most popular vegetarian restaurant in town. Italian, Mexican and Middle Eastern dishes all make appearances, and yes, there's plenty of tofu. Service is friendly and the helpings generous.
Prinsengracht 60-62
Western Canal Belt
tel info 020 626 18 03
Blue Pepper does contemporary Indonesian with Pacific Rim references like nowhere else in Amsterdam. The stylish room is a delight so just sit back, order one of the well-chosen wines and opt for one of the delicious set menus which arrive well-paced, well-sized and packed with flavour.
Nassaukade 366
Jordaan
tel info 020 489 70 39
If at first sight you thought Latei was a second-hand shop selling 50s and 60s lamps and trinkets, you'd be right. But Latei also makes some of the best coffee and snacks in Amsterdam. And, oddly enough, very popular and fun couscous nights.
Zeedijk 143
Centrum
tel info 020 625 74 85
underground rail Nieuwmarkt
Located on one of the most scenic canal junctions in Amsterdam, De Belhamel has an Art-Nouveau interior that is just as breathtaking as the view. The food does some neat hopping between French, Italian and Dutch, with seafood the hit of the main courses. Book an outside table in summer.
Brouwersgracht 60
Western Canal Belt
debelhamel@diningcity.nl www.diningcity.nl/debelhamel tel info 020 622 10 95
After a move to brighter but less enigmatic surrounds, thankfully the no-nonsense Thai menu and cooking remain intact. Go for the selection of starters, one of their spicy beef salads (very hot!) and the Pad Thai Gai (stir-fry noodles with chicken).
Herenstraat 28
Western Canal Belt
tel info 020 623 46 33
This light, airy eatery just across from Anne Frank Huis attracts a fairly hip crowd who linger over brasserie staples such as salmon, duck breast and steaks. There is a lovely outdoor terrace and it gets very busy late when the DJ (Thursday to Saturday) starts spinning. Book ahead for dinner.
Prinsengracht 277
Western Canal Belt
tel info 020 627 40 79
This cool Dutch label for men and women specialises in casual, functional fashion in neutral colours and natural fabrics. The name is a nod to the owners' earlier experience in wholesale clothing where they spent much of their time laundering garments.
Spuistraat 1
Centrum
tel info 020 420 25 54
In operation since the 19th century, this charming market focuses on books, posters, postcards and sheet music. Join students and staff from the nearby University of Amsterdam as they browse hundreds of well-thumbed tomes.
Oudemanhuispoort
Centrum
A mind-boggling array of kooky trinkets cram this store - from quirky action figures (we love the Crazy Cat Lady and Albino Bowler!) to mini-patron saints, foreplay dice and voodoo dolls. Travellers love the Wash Away Your Sins Soap.
Prinsengracht 297
Jordaan
tel info 020 627 95 40
From teeny tiny teddy bears to plastic pig snouts, this pleasantly crowded shop sells de best (the best) of de beesten (animals). Here you can find that itty bitty furry friend for your little non-furry friends. Other bests include: plush toys from skilled toy makers, lamps in animal shapes, and lots of plastic reptiles.
Staalstraat 11
Centrum
www.beestenwinkel.nl tel info 020 623 18 05
This wonderful cheese shop is the best in town and specialises in a wide variety of delicious cheeses (including Dutch of course...), olives, tapenades, salads and other great picnic ingredients. You try before you buy and they're happy to make up cheese baskets to take home.
Runstraat 7
Western Canal Belt
tel info 020 623 34 83
Possibly the world's oldest comic store, Lambiek has been in operation since 1968 and stocks an impressive range of underground comics, newspaper strips, web comics and even erotic comics, along with classics such as Tintin and Asterix.
Kerkstraat 132
Jordaan
www.lambiek.net tel info 020 626 75 43
One of the city's most atmospheric antique stores, Decorativa is so cluttered with candelabra, costumes and crystal chandeliers, that it's eccentric owner has put the paintings on the ceiling - look up!
Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 9a
Centrum
tel info 020 320 10 93
This funky orange-and-red-walled store is home to a mind-boggling range of cool yet very wearable womens shoes - from colourful beaded summery espadrilles to 1940s style two-toned suede and leather court shoes. Their clogs are also very cool.
Rokin 9
Centrum
tel info 020 422 10 40
Spread over several buildings, this is Amsterdam's most engaging music store. It has an eclectic collection of new and second-hand records, CDs, DVDs and videos, with particularly good selections of opera and classical music.
Utrechtsestraat 52-60
info@concerto.nu www.concerto.nu tel info 020 623 52 28
The spaceship design of this futuristic store demands a look - during the sales kick up your heels at discounts on shoes by Prada, Miu Miu, D&G, Gucci and Christian Dior. There are four other branches around the city, specialising in mens, womens and childrens shoes as well as accessories.
Pieter Cornelisz Hoofstraat 80
Old South
tel info 020 671 22 10
Amstel 1
(Waterlooplein entrance)
tel info 020 624 11 11
Kleine-Gartmanplantseon 21
www.aub.nl tel info 020 621 1311
Koningslaan 44
tel info 020 676 43 43
tel info 020 551 25 25
(next to international reservations office)
www.vvvamsterdam.nl tel info 020 551 25 25
Carnegielaan 10-IV
tel info 070 346 93 24
Museumsplein 19
tel info 020 575 53 09
Wassenaarsewg 40
www.zuidafrika.nl tel info 070 392 45 01
Carnegielaan 4
www.australian-embassy.nl tel info 070 310 82 00
Has free and heavily discounted maps.
Museumplein 5
tel info 020 673 08 44
More than 80,000 people a year cram into Amsterdam's most famous canal house and, with precious little space for visitors, it might rank among the lowlights if not for its towering subject matter: the ordeal of a young girl who documented the horrors of WWII like no one else did. Expect long queues and lengthy delays, particularly in the middle of the day.
Anne Frank received a diary for her 13th birthday, three weeks before she went into hiding, and the attic in which she wrote that diary is the focus of this moving, often upsetting place.
By July 1942 the Germans were tightening the noose around the neck of Amsterdam's Jewish population and Anne (13) and her sister Margot (16), along with their parents, went into hiding in the family's business premises. They survived there, hidden in the attic, until betrayed to the Germans in August 1944 - a date tantalisingly close to the capitulation and defeat of the Third Reich. No one knows who betrayed them.
The Franks were among the last Jews to be deported. Anne died in the Bergen concentration camp a few weeks before liberation. Otto, Anne's father, was the only surviving family member.
Prinsengracht 267
Western Canal Belt
www.annefrank.nl tel info 020 556 71 05
tram 13, 17
bus 21, 170, 171, 172
| full | Euro 7.50 |
| concession | 3.50 |
It's not surprising, really, that an old sea-dogger from the East India Company is permanently dry-docked somewhere in Amsterdam. The Dutch got rich sailing the high seas and their relationship with water is fundamental to the national psyche. This museum also owns what is probably the world's best collection of shipping memorabilia.
The museum is housed in the imposing Admiralty's Store building, where in the 17th century the East India Company loaded their ships before embarking on the nine-month journey to Jakarta. On the top floor, enjoy city views the way most landlubbers don't - through a periscope. Or, if you're a real salty, watch an engaging re-enactment of a trip to the East Indies in the film room. Sadly, the collection is difficult to navigate for visitors who can't read Dutch; you may be frustrated by the pitifully small number of translations provided for the huge array of exhibitions.
Kattenburgerplein 1
Eastern Islands
info@scheepvaartmuseum.nl www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl tel info 020 523 22 22
bus 22, 42, 43
| full | Euro 9.00 |
| family | Euro 18.00 |
| concession | Euro 6.00 |
| child | Euro 4.50 |
If you've only got time to visit one museum, Amsterdam's answer to the Louvre is it. Even with most of its rooms closed for a lengthy renovation (scheduled for completion in 2008), the Rijksmuseum still offers a stunning feast for art lovers, with 17th-century masterpieces, silverware, Delft pottery and icons of Dutch history to be admired.
Stadhouderskade 42
Old South
info@rijksmuseum.nl www.rijksmuseum.nl tel info 020 674 70 00
tram 2, 5, 6, 7, 10
| full | Euro 10.00 |
| child | free |
This museum will help you understand how Amsterdam grew from a fishing village on the banks of a stagnant swamp to a bustling metropolis. It makes you realise just how implausible it is that this town ever got built without bulldozers, electric pumps or mosquito repellant.
The engaging displays, housed in a labyrinthine monastery building dating from the 17th century, begin with a slick techno-aged aerial map of Amsterdam showing how the city was developed section by section, canal by canal. You can then take a three-part tour of the city's history that moves from the mid-14th century to present day. By the time you leave you'll realise what an astounding place Amsterdam is and how fitting it is that there's such a wonderful museum to eulogise it.
Kalverstraat 92
Medieval Centre
info@ahm.nl www.ahm.nl tel info 020 523 18 22
tram 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 14, 16, 24, 25
| full | Euro 7.00 |
| family | Euro 15.00 |
| concession | Euro 3.50 |
| child | free |
In the 1970s the Vondelpark used to be a haunt for hippies; these days it's less of a political hotbed but still one of the city's most beautiful green spots. Laid out as a green belt for the bourgeoisie in the 1860s, the English-style Vondelpark offers a wealth of ponds, lawns, thickets and winding footpaths to while away the hours.
The elongated park was named after the Netherlands' Shakespeare, poet and playwright Joost van den Vondel.
In the 1970s word spread that Amsterdam had tuned in and turned on, and hordes of hippies hit the Vondelpark to drop out. The park became famous worldwide as an open-air dormitory for those seeking an alternative way of life. These days it's illegal to sleep here. The park is now a mecca for joggers, frisbee throwers, children chasing ducks or kites, couples in love, families with prams and football players.
Stadhouderskade
Old South
stadsdeel@oudzuid.amsterdam.nl www.vondelpark.nl
tram 2, 3, 5, 12
| full | free |
With 8000 animals, a planetarium, a wonderful aquarium and acres of gardens, Artis should satisfy the most jaded tourist. Founded in 1838 and laid out in the former Plantage Gardens, it's the oldest zoo in Amsterdam. The zoo grounds, with ponds and plant-lined winding paths, also serve as an important botanical garden.
Besides the usual zoo attractions, there's an artificial savannah where zebras, gazelles and other African species roam a couple of islands in a bird-filled artificial marsh. The aquarium, built in 1882, is another highlight. One tank shows a cross-section of an Amsterdam canal, complete with sunken bicycle corpses and eels.
Plantage Kerklaan 38-40
The Plantage
info@artis.nl
www.artis.nl
tel info 020 523 34 00
fax info 020 523 34 81
tram 6, 9
| full | Euro 17.50 |
| child | Euro 14.00 |
| concession | Euro 16.50 |
Art lovers should brave the crowds to view the treasures of the Van Gogh Museum, which holds many of the artist's most famous works. Five hundred drawings, 200 paintings and over 700 letters make up the collection. Any visit to this museum brings the genius and vision of this tortured artist to life.
From the dour lumpen-life of The Potato Eaters to the bright, childlike colours of The Yellow House in Arles and the sombre beauty of Starry Night, the Van Gogh museum has curated the strongest ever showing of the artist's works. Born in 1853, Van Gogh had a short but amazingly productive life. He didn't begin painting until he was 28 years old, and produced most of his work in the last four years of his life, spent in France. Already predisposed to mental anguish, a virulent argument with his friend the painter Gaugin tipped him over the edge and caused him to cut off his ear. This self-mutilation was only the beginning of a steep spiral into madness, exacerbated by (as some have suggested) tertiary syphilllis. In 1890 he died by shooting himself in the head to escape institutionalisation.
Paulus Potterstraat 7
Old South
info@vangoghmuseum.nl. www.vangoghmuseum.nl tel info 020 570 52 00
tram 2, 5
| full | Euro 10.00 |
| child | Euro 2.50 |
Rembrandt is buried in an unmarked pauper's grave somewhere in the Westerkerk; the church also boasts the loudest carillon in the city and sweeping views from its 85m (279ft) tower. Built for the western canal gentry, the Westerkerk was the world's largest Protestant church when finished in 1631 (until St Paul's in London surpassed it in 1710).
The huge nave is covered by a wooden barrel vault - the marshy ground precluded the use of heavy stone. The enormous main organ (1686) bears panels of biblical scenes by Gerard de Lairesse, some of the few decorations in the scant interior.
Westermarkt
Western Canal Belt
info@westerkerk.nl
www.westerkerk.nl
tel info 020 624 77 66
tel booking 020 612 68 56
tram 13, 14, 17
This botanical garden was established in 1638 as a herb garden for the city's doctors and moved to the Plantage in 1682. It became a repository for tropical seeds and plants brought to Amsterdam by the West and East India Companies' ships. Coffee, pineapple, cinnamon and palm oil were distributed from here throughout the world.
The herb garden itself, the Hortus Medicus, is renowned for its research into cures for tropical diseases.There's a lot to see: the wonderful mixture of colonial and modern structures includes the restored, octagonal seed house; a hyper-modern three-climate glasshouse with subtropical, tropical and desert plants; a monumental palm house with a 300-plus-year-old cycad, claimed to be the world's oldest pot plant (it blossomed in 1999, a rare event); a butterfly house that's a hit with kids and stoned adults; a newly refurbished cafe with a very pleasant terrace; and of course the Hortus Medicus, the medicinal herb garden that attracts students from around the globe. Catwalks in the greenhouses allow you to see the plants from below and up close.
Plantage Middenlaan 2A
Plantage
www.hortus-botanicus.nl tel info 020 625 90 21
tram 6
| full | Euro 6.00 |
| child | Euro 3.00 |
Named after the millionaire's widow who bequeathed this monolithic mansion to the city in 1889, the Willet-Holthuysen is decorated in the high-camp neo-Louis XVI style. It features a series of authentic period rooms and an annual programme of exhibitions. The garden out the back is a grand place for a rest.
Herengracht 605
Southern Canal Belt
www.willetholthuysen.nl tel info 020 523 18 22
tram 4, 9, 14
| child | Euro 2.00 |
| full | Euro 4.00 |
An excellent stop on a bar hop, this casual bar gets pretty packed with students and arts-media types. Have a drink al fresco (private parties are often held on the front terrace), or stay inside and get the bartenders working up some of their renowned cocktails. Order some bar snacks, hang out a while, then see where the night takes you.
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 260
Medieval Centre
tel info 020 626 56 49
Opened in 1902, Cafe Americain is the oldest and by far the most stylish grand cafe in Amsterdam. With its Art Deco interior, vaulted roof and glorious stained-glass windows, it's a must-see. Sit yourself down at the antique reading table or get a table on the outside terrace and indulge in a spot of people-watching.
Leidsekade 97
Southern Canal Belt
tel info 020 556 32 32
1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 10
The Milky Way - housed in a former dairy - must be Amsterdam's coolest club-gallery-cinema-cafe-concert hall. It has a vibrant and varied program of events, from international DJ club nights to live Brazilian jazz.
Lijnbaansgracht 234a
Southern Canal Belt
www.melkweg.nl tel info 020 531 81 81
Popular with visiting celebrities, this slick place is contemporary in style despite a nod to its heritage (it opened in 1898 but was closed for 50 years. Its high ceilings, chandeliers, velvet sofas and wall-mounted butterfly collection create the perfect environment for lingering over cocktails.
Rembrandtplein 17
Centrum
www.dekroon.nl tel info 020 625 20 11
This is one of Amsterdam's oldest (1665) and most authentic brown cafes. It has stained-glass windows, sand on the floor, good-humoured service and a cuddly black-and-white cat to add to the loveability. The outside terrace, overlooking one of the prettiest parts of Prinsengracht, is an added bonus.
Prinsengracht 424
Western Canal Belt
tel info 020 626 47 75
The Art Deco-influenced interior of this laid-back bar is part of the attraction for the local crowd of regular drinkers. Visitors to the city call in because they want just that - a truly unpretentious 'local' experience.
Brouwersgracht 107
Jordaan
tel info 020 623 89 94
The high ceilings, cosy mezzanine and mellow atmosphere make Blincker a popular theatre cafe. At the rear of the Frascati Theatre, it gets crammed with a young student crowd having a pre-theatre meal or post-theatre drinks.
Sint Barberenstraat 7-9
Centrum
www.blincker.nl tel info 020 627 19 38
Located on the edge of the Stopera, Dantzig is inundated with thespians and theatregoers looking for a quiet bite (stick to the snacks). Relaxing on the expansive riverside terrace, soaking up the beautiful views over the Amstel, is a must. Get a glass of wine and make sure you're overheard deconstructing Sam Mendes' latest directorial efforts.
Zwanenburgwal 15
Centrum
tel info 020 620 90 39
This once-elegant grand cafe has seen better days although its faded charm still makes it undeniably atmospheric. These days it's over-run with tourists who enjoy people-watching from the sunny terrace. But if you prefer to hang out with the locals, head inside for a drink.
Spui 22-24
Medieval Centre
tel info 020 620 62 64
Chocolate is a standout lounge bar. It's nestled among a clutch of other bars on a great little pedestrian street, all of which attract a lively local crowd, especially on summer evenings. And while Chocolate's terrace is the most popular, we really love the vibe inside.
1e van der Helststraat 62a
De Pijp
tel info 020 675 76 72
A one-time bank building, this is one of our favourite new hotels in town. The design is inspired by the Amsterdam school of architecture, with a little Art Deco thrown in for good measure. If you're sensitive to noise, request a room away from busy Vijzelstraat (especially on the ground floor).
Rates may seem steep, but factor in unlimited incidentals like drinks, coffee, Internet and snacks in the lobby lounge. Rooms vary in size, but all are contemporary cool, with plasma screen TV, DVD player, in-room movies, wet bar with pour-your-own gin, whisky and cognac (all free), terry cloth robe, and your choice from a menu of pillows. Breakfast (also included) is a full-on affair that might include pancakes, egg dishes or French toast. For other meals, it's an easy walk to the cafes of Rembrandtplein or the elegant restaurants of Utrechtsestraat.
Herengracht 519-525
Southern Canal Belt
desk@banksmansion.nl
www.banksmansion.nl
tel info 020 420 00 55
fax info 020 420 09 93
tram 16, 24, 25 to Keizersgracht stop
Private, sophisticated, and intimate, the Seven Bridges is one of the city's loveliest little hotels on one of its loveliest canals. Eight tastefully decorated rooms incorporate lush oriental rugs and elegant antiques. The owners have an obsessive pride in their hotel, and it shows.
Named after the seven bridges you can see from the hotel (they're situated at the confluence of the Keizersgracht and Reguliersgracht canals), this hotel is in an undeniably beautiful location. You're just steps from the nightlife of Rembrandtplein and the Amstel.
Room five is the largest and quietest, with private balcony and garden views; other rooms look outward. As much as the setting, the service also sets this hotel apart: morning sightseeing will seem superfluous after breakfast (hot croissants and strong coffee served on fine china) is delivered to your room. The hotel has high-speed Internet access in all rooms.
Reguliersgracht 31
Southern Canal Belt
sevenbridgeshotel@msn.com sevenbridgeshotel.nl tel info 020 623 13 29
tram 4, 16, 24, 25 Keizersgracht
Formerly known as Blakes Amsterdam, the Dylan is a temple of style. Created by London hotelier Anouska Hempel, it combines 17th-century canal house-style with contemporary Asian-influenced decor. This really is about as chic as it gets.
The complex where the Dylan now stands was once a theatre and later a charity house. Slink through the 17th-century canal house's courtyard entrance, past the gorgeous staff, and ensconce yourself in the restaurant or the black-and-white lobby. In its 41 rooms, decor comes in a variety of styles (think black-and-white kimono rooms with black Belgian marble, or La Carmona style, inspired by the spice traders of the East India Company). All feature fluffy towels, silk pillows piled high and spacious bathrooms. Plus, there's free health club access.
Keizersgracht 384
Western Canal Belt
Hotel@Blakes.nl
www.dylanamsterdam.com
tel info 020 530 20 10
fax info 020 530 20 30
tram 1, 2, 5
Oh Orlando, how do we love thee? Let us count the ways: 1. Biggish, high-ceilinged, canalside rooms, smallish rates; 2. Hospitable, gay-friendly host; 3. Breakfast in bed (on request); 4. Impeccably chic boutique style. And the list goes on...
We dare you not to love the Orlando. Near the eastern end of the Prinsengracht, it's traditional on the outside and modern on the inside. Each of its five rooms has private facilities, satin curtains and custom-designed contemporary cabinetry for your TV and minibar. All of this somehow works harmoniously with 19th-century and modern design pieces from Gispen, Eileen Gray and Philippe Starck. It was fully renovated in 2004. Rooms in the back have garden views, including a 17th-century water well. In addition the owner, a former attorney who saw the light, can arrange for newspaper delivery, laundry, theatre bookings and other big-hotel concierge services. The Orlando has Internet access, nonsmoking rooms and, unusual for such a small hotel in Amsterdam, air-con (however, there's no elevator).
Prinsengracht 1099
Old South
www.hotelorlando.nl
tel booking 020 638 69 15
fax info 020 625 21 23
Flick through the books in the Ambassade's spiffy little library and you'll spy signed copies by Salman Rushdie and Umberto Eco. Literary luminaries, business travellers and well-heeled tourists alike love this tastefully appointed hotel, spread over 10 canal houses.
The Ambassade's Louis XVI and Napoleonic-style furniture and fixtures are traditional without being overbearing and the service is kind. The sparkling lounge (with fresh flowers and chandeliers) is ideal for business meetings or afternoon tea; note the curious grandfather clock (1751) with its gently rocking ships and mermaids. Because the hotel comprises so many buildings, its 59 rooms and suites are all different. Yet all feature broadband connections, 24hr room service, and a description of the history of the individual building. Most rooms have views of the Herengracht or Singel canals. Professional, kindly staff arrange everything from secretaries and audiovisual equipment through to babysitters and tickets for museums and canal boats. Breakfast goodies include egg dishes and salmon rolls. Get a window seat.
Herengracht 341
Western Canal Belt
info@ambassade-hotel.nl
www.ambassade-hotel.nl
tel info 020 555 02 22
fax info 020 555 02 77
tram 1, 2, 5
Not fancy but honest value, this 18th-century house features 'aah lovely' canal views, a breakfast room with blue Delft tiles, and 'Captain Hook', electric luggage hoist in the central stairwell.
Off lively Utrechtsestraat, the Prinsenhof's 11 rooms are spotless, often spacious and well-appointed with comfortable beds and a smattering of antique furnishings. All but one of the rooms overlook the canal or garden, and only two have private facilities. Pricier rooms have high ceilings and exposed beams. The attic quarters with diagonal beams are most popular. Staff are affable with a hint of world-weary Amsterdam humour - check the website to see what we mean. They dispense friendly advice, as do your fellow guests in the form of restaurant business cards and take-out menus on a message board in the stairwell, scribbled with notes of where to eat and - just as importantly - where to avoid. There are no TVs in rooms, no lifts (hence Captain Hook), no nonsmoking rooms and no Internet access.
Prinsengracht 810
Southern Canal Belt
info@hotelprinsenhof.com
www.hotelprinsenhof.com
tel info 020 623 17 72
fax info 020 638 33 68
tram 4 to Prinsengracht
Oozing Victorian elegance, the Hotel l'Europe welcomes you with a marble lobby graced with Dutch Master paintings, glam chandeliers, 100 rooms (some have terraces and all have handsome marble bathrooms), and smart extras like a shoe-shine service and boats for canal cruises.
Built in 1899 (and still imbued with the feel of that era), the l'Europe's lift has a little banquette and cut crystal sconces. Even the most basic rooms boast lots of space - a rare commodity in this crowded city - and on your welcome you might find fresh flowers, fruits or sweets. The hotel's Excelsior restaurant and gym (said to be admired by no less than Governor Schwarzenegger) with 'plunge pool' are equally impressive. Can-do concierges are famous for being able to secure anything, from tickets to the Van Gogh Museum to reservations at the town's toughest tables. Last but not least are the commanding views of the River Amstel; in summer the terrace cafe La Terrasse is one of the Amsterdam's prettiest - make time for it even if you don't stay here.
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8
Centrum
www.leurope.nl
tel info 020 531 17 77
fax info 020 531 17 78
tram 4, 9, 16, 24, 25
At this tidy, renovated, steep-staired inn, take your pick of the themed rooms (one with a sexy red-gold interior, another with delicate French antiques), all with TV, phone, safe and fridge. The hostess is also very knowledgeable.
Don't go expecting glam furnishings (it does say 'budget' hotel in its name), but do expect a certain well-maintained style. More expensive double and triple rooms have private facilities; none of the single rooms do. The gregarious hostess is a fount of information, and the hotel's website is practically a tourist guide in its own right. If you don't bring your own computer, you can rent one for in-house wi-fi. Breakfast is extra, and the breakfast balcony is a popular place to enjoy it, weather permitting. Rooms facing busy Radhuisstraat offer views of the monumental Westerkerk and Royal Palace. If you're a light sleeper, consider bringing ear plugs for these rooms.
Raadhuisstraat 39
Western Canal Belt
info@clemenshotel.nl www.clemenshotel.nl tel info 020 624 60 89
tram 13, 17
De Munck is a sane choice in a quiet neighbourhood. All 16 rooms are bright and well kept and come with TV and phone. Add in a flower-filled courtyard, a huge continental breakfast and whip-smart witty staff, and you've got a worthy stay.
This building (built 1727), once home to an East India Company captain, is now a slice of rock-and-roll heaven, with a '60s diner-style breakfast room (though we're not exactly sure why), working Wurlitzer jukebox and record covers lining the walls. Admittedly, that may not suit everyone's taste, but rooms (across two buildings with no elevator) are significantly more sedate, comfy if not flash, and on the large side. The location is quiet in general, and the owners have made it even more so by installing double-pane windows in rooms. It's pretty no frills (no air-con, Internet or nonsmoking rooms), but there is greenery, both in the garden out back and the park out front. A natural haven for children and pets, the latter are welcome with advance notice.
Achtergracht 3
Southern Canal Belt
info@hoteldemunck.com
www.hoteldemunck.com
tel info 020 623 62 83
fax info 020 620 66 47
tram 4, 6, 7, 10
Where to spend your time in this splendid, historic, 17th-century hotel? In the ornately furnished, high-ceilinged, 17th-century dining room resplendent with chandeliers, grand piano and garden views? The plush, burgundy-hued bar? Or the small but inviting antique-filled guest rooms?
The Canal House is actually two 17th-century houses, which are as charismatic and charming as they are well located. Public areas are riots of ornate ceilings and antiques, and most of the 26 rooms are old-fashioned and comfortable. The Irish owners love their hotel so much that they live here. The occasional chip in the furniture or threadbare carpet patch only make it seem more authentically antique. Having said that, the quality of your stay may well depend on your room. The most prized rooms face the canal, while others face the garden (though you can get the same views from the breakfast room). Top-storey (read: attic) rooms tend to be cramped, and if you're sensitive to noise you'll want to bring earplugs - the bells of the nearby Westerkerk church chime every 15 minutes.
Keizersgracht 148
Western Canal Belt
info@canalhouse.nl
www.canalhouse.nl
tel info 020 622 51 82
fax info 020 624 13 17
tram 13, 14, 17
It doesn't happen every year, but when it does it's legendary: if the canals freeze right, you can't miss the 'Eleven Cities Journey' (www.elfstedentocht.nl), a gruelling skating marathon through the countryside of Friesland, held in January. In March, Catholics walk along the Holy Way in the Silent Procession, which commemorates the Miracle of Amsterdam.
Queen's Day, on 30 April, is the day to be in Amsterdam - there's a free market, street parties, live music and lots of beer. National Windmill Day is in May and open garden days are held the same month. The Holland Festival (www.hollandfestival.nl), the country's biggest arts festival, runs throughout June, and in August local theatre groups and orchestras perform free throughout the city.
September hosts the Flower Parade (www.bloemencorso.com/aalsmeer, in Dutch), and in November Sinterklaas arrives by ship from Spain. Also in November, the Cannabis Cup (www.hightimes.com) celebrates the sacred herb. Sinterklaas, the traditional Dutch Christmas, is held on 6 December, although gifts are handed out the evening before. The standard-issue Christmas is also celebrated on the 25th.
Amsterdam's public holidays include New Year's Day (1 January), Good Friday, Easter Monday, Queen's day (30 April), Ascension Day, Whit Sunday (Pentecost) and Monday, Christmas and Boxing Day (25 and 26 December).
| mid-May-Sep | peak tourist season |
| Mar | Silent Procession |
| Jun | Holland Festival |
| Sept | Flower Parade |
| Nov | Cannabis Cup |
| 24 Dec | Christmas Eve |
| Mar/Apr | Good Friday |
| Mar/Apr | Easter Monday |
| mid-late May | Ascension Day |
| late May | Whit Monday |
| 26 Dec | Boxing Day |




