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History, art, a head of beer and a roll-your-own.
Amsterdam is one of the world's best hangouts, a canny blend of old and new: radical squatter art installations hang off 17th-century eaves; BMWs give way to bicycles; and triple-strength monk-made beer is drunk in gleaming, minimalist cafes.
'In Amsterdam the water is the mistress and the land the vassal. Throughout the city there are as many canals and drawbridges as bracelets on a Gypsy's bronzed arms.' Felix Marti-Ibanez
The city seems to thrive on its mix and, despite hordes of tourists, still manages to feel quintessentially Dutch. The old crooked houses, the cobbled streets, the tree-lined canals and the generous parks all contribute to the atmosphere.
Amsterdam's centre is enjoyably small-scale, though finding your way around the canal belt can be confusing. The old city is contained within the ring of concentric canals dating from the 17th century that form the crescent-shaped canal belt bordered by the Singelgracht. Think of it as half a bicycle wheel: the medieval city around Centraal Station is the hub, and several main roads, minor canals and the Amstel River function as spokes.
Dam Square, five minutes' walk south of the station, is the centre of town, but there are several other happening 'centres', all within walking distance: Leidseplein, with much of the city's cultural life and nightlife, Rembrandtplein (nightlife), Spui ('intellectual' life) and Museumplein (culture) are just some of the focal points that make the city a joy to explore on foot or by bicycle.
Centraal Station, the central train and bus station, lies on the south bank of the IJ. The airport at Schiphol is 18km (11mi) southwest of the city centre.
Dutch cuisine used to be pretty close to the bottom of the food chain - basic meat and potatoes didn't do much apart from fill the stomach. These days, however, an increasing number of places have gussied up those staid Dutch dishes, and places with an international flavour are opening their doors.
Posh places far outweigh the cheap, but there are some great budget places centrally located in town so it's definitely worth paying a bit extra for something conveniently placed - that way you can enjoy the nightlife without having to resort to taxis.
Set against a backdrop of scenic canals, gabled houses and cobblestone streets, clusters of hip boutiques, art galleries, and one-off speciality stores tout their trade. Renowned for its diamonds, flowers and Delftware, Amsterdam's real strengths are its directional fashion and homewares stores.
Even the most jaded culture vulture will be impressed by Amsterdam's selection of canalside pubs, hip-as-hell clubs, jazz venues and cutting-edge experimental theatre. Drop into a proeflokaal (brown cafe) for a couple of genevers (Dutch gins) or an ale or two.
Amsterdam has many fascinating neighbourhoods to explore, from red light sleaze to bohemian chic to stately grandeur. The landscape is riddled with graceful bridges and eccentric churches, the air laden with carillon chimes. Most attractions are within the canal belt, so sightseeing is a breeze.
