Iceland has unlimited remote trekking opportunities, as well as worthy ski facilities and plentiful whitewater rafting, spelunking, horseback riding and swimming in geothermal pools. For something a bit different, sled down the Langjökull Icecap or enter the Arctic Open, an all-night golf tournament that attracts players from around the world.
Geysir is the original spouting hot spring; all the others around the world are named after it. The Great Geysir debuted in the 14th century, blasting a jet of water up to 80m (262ft) into the air. By the 1950s tourists had clogged it with rocks and rubbish, thrown in an attempt to set it off. The geysir ceased erupting and was mostly inactive for decades.
Since earthquakes in 2000, it has begun erupting again two or three times daily. Nearby, the world's most reliable geyser Strokkur (the Churn), spouts up to 35m (115ft) and erupts every six minutes or so.
(E of Reykjavík)
www.geysircenter.com tel info 486 8704
bus from Reykjavík
Iceland's most famous geothermal pool, the Blue Lagoon, is the country's top tourist attraction. It might be crowded and expensive; but there's nowhere else like it in the world.
Hidden in black lava between the airport and Reykjavík, this huge, milky-blue spa is fed by mineral-rich heated seawater. Add to this weird scenery the silvery towers of the nearby geothermal plant, rolling clouds of steam, and people daubed in white silica-mud, and you might be on another planet. When you've finished floating round the spa with a silly smile on your face, you can investigate the extras: hot pots, saunas and steam rooms, and a piping hot waterfall that delivers a powerful hydraulic massage (imagine being pummelled by a troll). If you want proper spa treatments, professional masseurs can knead out your knots (book well in advance). There's a bar-restaurant with spa-side seating and a shop selling Blue Lagoon products.
(240 Grindavík)
www.bluelagoon.com tel info 420 8800
car
| full | Iceland Krona 1400.00 |
| child | Iceland Krona 700.00 |
This immense concrete church looms over Reykjavík like a set from a Norse opera. With a 75m (246ft) steeple flanked by concrete representations of volcanic basalt columns, Hallgrímskirkja is visible from 20km (12mi) away. Admire the elongated, ultrastark interior; then for an unmissable view of the city, take an elevator trip up the tower.
Outside, a statue of Leifur Eiríksson, the Viking explorer who first discovered Vinland (modern-day America), gazes proudly forth. It was a present from the USA on the 1000th anniversary of the Alþing (Parliament).
Skólavörðustígur
Central Rejkjavík
www.hallgrimskirkja.is tel info 510 1000
| free |
Europe's largest national park encompasses a breathtaking collection of peaks and glaciers and is the country's favourite wilderness: 160,000 visitors per year come to marvel at thundering waterfalls, twisting birch woods, and the brilliant blue-white Vatnajökull icecap - Earth's largest icecap outside the poles, weighing in at 3000 billion tonnes.
Expansion plans are underway - eventually, Skaftafell and Jökulsárgljúfur will join to form one 15,000km sq megapark - 40% of the entire country.
There are walking trails, tours and accommodation available in the area. There's also a very helpful visitor centre which shows a cool film about the 1996 jökulhlaup (glacial flood) in peak season.
(in southern Vatnajökull)
www.ust.is tel info 478 1627
bus from either Reykjavík or Höfn
| free |
Iceland's most famous waterfall tumbles 32m (105ft) into a steep-sided canyon, kicking up a sheer wall of spray. The spectacle depends on what the weather is like. On sunny days the spray creates shimmering rainbows over the gorge and Gullfoss can seem simply magical. On grey, drizzly days the falls retreat into the mist and can be slightly underwhelming.
The site was once slated for sale to international bidders for hydroelectric development, but has since been purchased by the government and set aside as a national monument.
(E of Reykjavík)
bus from Reykjavík
Reykjavík boasts all the trappings of a modern European city, dusted over with eccentric Icelandic spirit. Thriving cafes, high-energy pubs and clubs, and a brightly coloured old town with rows of wood-and-corrugated-tin houses cluster together in the compact city centre.
The barren lava fields that surround Iceland's international airport are an eye-grabbing introduction to this near-Arctic island, belched out of the mouths of volcanoes (some still active), awash in midnight sun from May to August, glistening with glaciers, geysers, hot springs and waterfalls.
Not only is Reykjavík ('Smoky Bay') the world's northernmost capital, it's also one of the newest, having established itself only in the late 19th century. However, Iceland's traditions go back to medieval times, which live on today in treasured sagas with characters like Grettir the Strong and Auður the Deep-Minded.
Besides an interesting man-made history, the city also gets a high approval rating for its exuberance and disarming intimacy, and for the appeal of its decidedly European urbanity after the otherwordly wilds of the surrounding countryside.
Mývatn, in northeast Iceland, is considered one of the natural wonders of the world. Although most of the interesting sights are volcanic or geothermal topographical features, the reserve's centrepiece is a lovely blue lake teeming with birdlife.
Thanks to its location in the rain shadow of an enormous icecap, the reserve experiences some of the finest weather in Iceland. Travellers can relax and settle in, spend a week camping, or set out on excursions to the Kverkfjöll ice caves, Námaskaro or the Hverfell crater.
Part of the island of Grímsey, lying 41km (25.5mi) north of the mainland, constitutes Iceland's only bit of territory within the Arctic Circle. The main reason for coming here is to admire the cliffs, which are 100m (328ft) high in some places - perfect for bird colonies that nest on the island.
Grímsey is the home of the most avid chess players in Iceland. Historically, losing a match has often resulted in the blunderer flinging himself into the sea - failure in chess was failure in life. While your life is probably safe if you're asked to play, it's best to treat the occasion seriously.
The largest nationwide festival of the year is Independence Day (17 June), a time of colourful parades, street music and dancing, outdoor theatre and general merriment. Other nationwide celebrations include: Sjómannadagurinn (first week in June), which is dedicated to seafarers and has participants competing in swimming contests, tugs-of-war and sea rescues; Midsummer (24 June) - tradition has it that Midsummer Night's dew possesses magical healing powers and that to roll in it naked will cure 19 different health problems; and Sumardagurinn Fyrsti (the third Thursday in April), a carnival-style celebration of the first day of summer. Among the local festivals is Pjóðhátíð (August), an earth-shaking event of immense bonfires, outdoor camping, dancing, singing, eating and getting uproariously drunk. Elsewhere in Iceland Verslunarmannahelgi (August) is celebrated with barbecues, horse competitions, camping out, family reunions and excessive alcohol consumption.