Europe Travel Guides

Activities

The Germans invented naturism and getting outdoors and active, with or without clothes, is a national obsession. Try cycling, hiking, mountaineering, skiing and horse riding - you'll find the trails and facilities impeccable. A cruise along some of Germany's great rivers is a more laid-back option. Another of Germany's cultural traditions - the spa - is an excellent way to recover from any kind of exertion.

Points of interest

Stasi Museum

The one-time headquarters of East Germany's notorious secret police now houses the so-called Stasi Museum. Here you can marvel at cunning surveillance devices, snicker at kitschy communist trinkets and see the austere office of longtime Stasi chief Erich Mielke, once the most feared man in the GDR.

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Schloss Neuschwanstein

Appearing through the mountain-top mist like a surreal fantasy is the world's best-known castle, Schloss Neuschwanstein. Ludwig II planned this castle himself with the help of a stage designer rather than an architect. It was conceived as a giant stage to recreate the world of Germanic mythology immortalised in the operatic works of Richard Wagner.

Construction started in 1869 and, like so many of Ludwig's grand schemes, was never finished. For all the money spent on it, the king spent just over 170 days in residence.

Neuschwanstein's centrepiece is the lavish Sängersaal (Minstrels' Hall). Wall frescoes in the hall depict scenes from the opera Tannhäuser. Though the hall wasn't used during Ludwig's time, concerts are now held there every September.

Other completed sections include: Ludwig's bedroom, dominated by a huge Gothic-style bed crowned with intricately carved Gothic spires; a gaudy artificial grotto (another allusion to Tannhäuser); and the Byzantine Thronsaal (Throne Room) with a great mosaic floor and a chandelier shaped like a giant crown.

Neuschwanstein served as the model for the Sleeping Beauty Castles at the original Disneyland in California and the new Hong Kong Disneyland.

The wooded hills framing the castle make for some wonderful walks. For the postcard view of Neuschwanstein and the plains beyond, walk 10 minutes up to Marienbrücke (Mary's Bridge), which spans the spectacular Pöllat Gorge over a waterfall just above the castle.

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Goethe Haus

Anyone with an interest in German literature should visit Goethe Haus, the birthplace of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe in 1749. Goethe lived here until moving to Weimar in 1775, an act that many Frankfurters find hard to forgive. It was also here that Goethe penned his ode to suicide, The Sorrows of Young Werther, and began work on Faust.

The house is a wonderful example of how Frankfurt's well-to-do lived in the 18th century. The rooms are nicely decorated with a mix of reproduction and original furniture, offering a glimpse of 18th-century domestic life. Highlights are Goethe's original writing desk and the library.

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Schloss Linderhof

A trove of weird treasures, Schloss Linderhof was Ludwig II's smallest but most sumptuous palace. Finished in 1878, the palace hugs a hillside in a landscape of French gardens, fountains and follies. The reclusive king rarely received visitors here. Like Herrenchiemsee, Linderhof was inspired by Versailles and dedicated to Louis XIV, the French 'sun king'.

Linderhof's myth-laden, jewel-encrusted rooms are a monument to the king's excesses that so unsettled the governors in Munich. The private bedroom is the largest room, heavily ornamented and anchored by an enormous 108-candle crystal chandelier weighing 500kg (79 stone). An artificial waterfall, built to cool the room in summer, cascades just outside the window.

The dining room reflects the king's fetish for privacy and inventions. The king ate from a mechanised dining board that sank through the floor to be laid in the kitchen below so that his servants could replenish it without being seen.

The gardens and outbuildings are as fascinating as the castle itself. The highlight is the oriental-style Moorish Kiosk, where Ludwig, dressed in oriental garb, would preside over nightly entertainment from a peacock throne. Underwater light dances on the stalactites at the Venus Grotto, an artificial cave inspired by a stage set for Wagner's Tannhäuser. Underwater lighting (a pioneering technical achievement for the time) illuminates the room and the empty conch-shaped boat waiting by the shore.

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Romantic Road

Two million people ply the Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road) every year, making it by far the most popular of Germany's holiday routes. That means lots of signs in English and Japanese, tourist coaches and kitsch galore. Running north-south through western Bavaria, the Romantic Road covers 420km (261mi) between Würzburg and Füssen near the Austrian border.

For the most part the trail rolls through pleasant, if not spectacular, landscape that links some two dozen cities and towns, including Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Dinkelsbühl and Augsburg.

Locals get their cut of the Romantic Road hordes through, among other things, scores of good-value private accommodation offerings. Look for the Zimmer Frei signs.

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Füssen

One of the last stops on the Romantic Road, Füssen is a small town nestled between towering Alpine peaks and Schwangau. Together these towns form the Royal Corner, home to King Ludwig Wilhelm II's fantasy castles. Ludwig II didn't get along with his ministers and relatives who had him diagnosed as unfit to rule; soon after, he was found mysteriously drowned.

The king's legacy consists of the three fantastical castles he had built near Füssen: Neuschwanstein, Herrenchiemsee and Linderhof.

But there's more to Füssen than its castles. Its compact centre, with its tangle of lanes, is full of historical buildings; check out the Hohes Schloss. There are excellent views from the top of Tegelbergbahn, reached by cable car, and nearby are the Bavarian Alps.

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Aachen Dom

The oldest and most precious section of Aachen Dom is Charlemagne's Pfalzkapelle (palace chapel), an exquisite example of Carolingian architecture. Completed in 800, the year of the emperor's coronation, it's an octagonal dome encircled by a 16-sided, two-story ambulatory supported by antique pillars from Italy.

Suspended from the 31m (101ft) high dome hangs a colossal brass chandelier, donated by Emperor Friedrich Barbarossa during whose reign Charlemagne was canonised in 1165.

Pilgrims have poured into town ever since, drawn as much by the cult surrounding Charlemagne as by the prized relics - said to include Christ's loincloth - he had brought to Aachen. These are still displayed every seven years; the next time in 2007. A Gothic choir was fused to the chapel in 1414 and filled with priceless treasure. Highlights include the pala d'oro and the jewel-encrusted gilded copper pulpit, both fashioned in the 11th century. At the far end is the shrine of Charlemagne, a golden extravaganza that has held the emperor's remains since 1215.

Unless you join a German-language tour, you'll only catch a glimpse of Charlemagne's white marble imperial throne in the upstairs gallery. Reached via six steps - just like King Solomon's throne - it served as the coronation throne of 30 German kings between 936 and 1531.

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Schloss Hohenschwangau

Ludwig II spent his childhood at the sun-yellow Schloss Hohenschwangau. Originally built by Schwangau knights during the 12th century, the palace's current form dates from the 1830s after Ludwig's father, Maximilian II, had the ruin reconstructed in neo-Gothic fashion. It's less ostentatious than the fairy-tale Neuschwanstein and has a lived-in feeling.

It was here that Ludwig first met Wagner, and the Hohenstaufensaal features a square piano where the composer would entertain Ludwig with excerpts from his latest oeuvre. Some rooms feature frescoes from German history and legends (including the Wagner subject Lohengrin, the Swan Knight).

After his father died, Ludwig's main alteration was having stars, illuminated with hidden oil-lamps, painted on the ceiling of his bedroom.

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Brandenburg Gate

One of Berlin's most photographed locations, Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) once marked the impenetrable boundary between East and West Berlin. Built in 1791, Brandenburger Tor has often been a centre stage for Berlin's militant political rallies, including the memorable celebrations in November 1989, when the Berlin Wall was torn down.

This imposing 18th-century structure has endured several symbolic reincarnations. Intended by its architect Carl Gotthard Langhans to be a symbol of peace, the gate was crowned by the Quadriga (a four-horse chariot driven by the winged goddess of victory) a couple of years later, turning it into a monument to Prussian militarism.

Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, political groups from all ideological walks hijacked the pliable Brandenburger Tor as the backdrop for their rallies and processions. All this triumphalism ended abruptly in 1961 when the Wall was built and the gate sealed off in no-man's-land.

In 1989, after the dissolution of the border, the area was reopened to the public. Today, traffic passes freely under the gate while nearby, enterprising scammers sell chunks of Berlin Wall concrete, mostly of dubious provenance.

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Black Forest

Home of the cuckoo clock, the Schwarzwald (Black Forest) gets its name from its dark, slightly sinister canopy of evergreens: this is where Hansel and Gretel encountered the wicked witch. The vast expanse of hills, valleys, rivers and forests stretch from the swish spa town of Baden-Baden to the Swiss border, and from the Rhine almost to Lake Constance.

Twenty minutes walk - or a five-minute bike ride - fom populated spots will almost always put you out in nature - in the middle of quiet countryside dotted with traditional farmhouses and amiable dairy cows, perhaps, or in a thick forest where Little Red Riding Hood's wolf may lurk.

The northern section, with its hilly but relatively gentle terrain is home to several charming towns. Freudenstadt makes a good base for exploring the Northern area. Many of the Schwarzwald's most impressive sights are in the triangle delimited by the lively university city of Freiburg, 15km (9.3mi) east of the Rhine in the southwest; Triberg, cuckoo clock capital of Creation, in the north; and the charming river-valley city of St Blasien in the southeast. Even smaller towns in the area generally have tourist offices.

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German Skiing Federation

Deutsche Skiverband (German Skiing Federation) is a good central resource for skiiers wanting information about locations, conditions and prices.

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Deutscher Alpenverein (German Alpine Club)

The Deutscher Alpenverein is a good resource for information on walking and mountaineering, and has over 350 local chapters throughout Germany. It also maintains numerous Alpine mountain huts, many of them open to the public, where you can spend the night and get a meal. Their website is in German only.

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UK Embassy

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Home Company

Home Company is a nationwide network of flat-sharing agencies that can arrange long-term rentals; its website has all the details, also in English.

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German National Tourist Office

A useful resource for tourists; it also has an entire section dedicated to information about vacationing in Germany with a disability with helpful links.

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Natko

The National Tourism Coordination Agency for All People is a central clearing house for inquiries about travelling in Germany as a person with a disability. Has lots of links to local agencies.

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German Lesbian & Gay Federation

Lesben- und Schwulenverband Deutschland fights for gay and lesbian rights, and legal and social equality.

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Japanese Embassy

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Australian Embassy

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USA Embassy

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Attractions

Tübingen

This gentle, picturesque university town, just 35km (22mi) south of Stuttgart, is a place to wander winding cobbled alleys past half-timbered houses and old stone walls. From the heights of the Renaissance Hohentübingen Castle there are fine views over the steep, red-tiled rooftops of the altstadt (old town).

Today's students are the proud custodians of a rigorous liberal intellectual tradition, and can be seen in every cafe plotting earnestly to save the world. The market here is a treasure, filled with fruit and vegetables, and this is one town where some of this crisp and fresh produce might actually turn up on your plate.

Leipzig

In Goethe's Faust a character named Frosch calls Leipzig 'a little Paris'. He was wrong - Leipzig is much more fun! Street-side cafes pour out onto the pavement, and underground music clubs thud throughout the night. The town also has some of the finest classical music and opera in the country - it was once home to Bach, Wagner and Mendelssohn.

Leipzig became the Stadt der Helden (City of Heroes) for its leading role in the 1989 democratic revolution. Its residents organised protests against the communist regime in May of that year. By October, they were taking to the streets by the hundreds of thousands, placing candles on the steps of Stasi headquarters (now a museum) and attending peace services at St Nicholas Church. By the time the secret police got round to pulping their files, Leipzigers were partying in the streets, and they haven't stopped since.

As well as a lively social scene, the town provides fortifying doses of culture. The Museum of Fine Arts has an excellent collection of old masters, and Leipzig's contemporary art and literature scenes are flourishing.

Frankfurt

Frankfurt is often seen only as a transit hub or a business centre, but it's so much more. It boasts Germany's most spectacular skyline, mirrored in the Main River, and Europe's tallest office building. It's also the country's most international town; more than a quarter of its citizens are foreign.

Frankfurt throws more money at the arts than any other European city, so you'll most likely catch a ground-breaking exhibition at one of its museums. And if you do happen to get stuck at the mega-airport there's a nightclub, art gallery and X-rated cinema to help while away those in-transit hours.

The city epitomises modern Germany. It's home to Germany's stock exchange and 400 banking institutions. Its modern architecture and financial clout give the city a decidedly American tone - though the nickname 'Mainhattan' is perhaps overdoing it.

Rhine Valley

Here you'll find dramatic landscapes with fertile vineyards clinging to steep hills, numerous imposing castles and dreamy wine villages. Every village has at least one wine festival per year, with the most famous being the Rhine in Flames series of festivals, when water, lighting and fireworks are combined to spectacular effect.

Munich

Munich, rivalled only by Berlin as Germany's most popular destination, is a sophisticated city that enjoys contradicting itself. Don some ironic lederhosen and head down to the capital of Bavaria, where folk traditions ride alongside BMWs and hearty meals share the table with haute cuisine.

The city is a haven for all sorts of culture, with a staggering array of museums, a vibrant arts scene and the infamous revels of Oktoberfest. Bavaria is souvenir-icon Germany at its postcard best, and the fairy-tale Gothic, Biergarten-filled city of Munich is no exception.

Lübeck

Lübeck is a glorious medieval town that's earned its place on UNESCO's World Heritage list. It's a quiet alternative to the more spectacular attractions further south. The altstadt (old town) was heavily bombed in WWII but has been sensitively rebuilt and the town's stately charm is apparent today.

Cheapish accommodation is plentiful and there is a good variety of moderately-priced restaurants. Lübeck is home to the delightful Marionettentheater (Puppet Theatre), which shouldn't be missed.

There's a stark reminder of the war inside the Marienkirche. A bombing raid brought the church bells crashing to the stone floor and the townspeople have left the bell fragments in place, with a small sign saying: 'A protest against war and violence'.

Weimar

Best known abroad as the birthplace of the ill-fated Weimar Republic, this small city is a cultural pilgrimage site for Germans. It was the epicentre of the country's Age of Enlightenment and home to such intellectual and creative giants as Goethe, Bach, Schiller, Liszt, Nietzsche, Kandinsky and Klee, to name a few.

Walter Gropius founded the Bauhaus School, the cornerstone of modern architecture, here in 1919. The Bauhaus Museum chronicles this group and their work, but the only Weimar building constructed in the style is the Haus am Horn.

The town really belongs to Goethe, with the Goethe Nationalmuseum and two of his former residences open to fans of the German genius. Because of its historical significance, Weimar has received particularly large handouts for the restoration of its many fine buildings and was named European Capital of Culture for 1999. The dark side of this city of light lies only 10km (6mi) away; the ghostly ruins of the Buchenwald concentration camp, which provide haunting evidence of the terrors of the Nazi regime.

North Frisian Islands

The North Frisian Islands reward those who make the trek, with sunshine, sand dunes, sea and pure air. Much of this area is a national park and paths and boardwalks are provided for strolling. One island, Helgoland, was used as a submarine base in WWII and you can tour the strong bunkers and underground tunnels.

Sylt tends to be choked by wealthy spa-seekers, although it's possible to seek out places where they don't go. It's better to head for Föhr or Amrum, which are tranquil, less touristy and don't have the spa-and-sauna culture that promotes hi-jinks such as lightning dashes into the chilly North Sea. You can walk or cycle around at your leisure or take a horse ride. Further out to sea, Helgoland is a fun one- or two-day excursion from the North Frisian Islands.

Harz Mountains

The Harz Mountains rise picturesquely from the North German plain, a quick train ride from the tourist centres in the south. They don't have the peaks and valleys of the Alps, but they offer a great all-seasons sports getaway without some of the Alpine tackiness and tourism.

The Harz area is well organised for hikers, but not to the detriment of its beauty. The area is popular for cycle touring, although pedal pushers must share some of the winding mountain roads with petrol heads, so check maps before heading off. Downhill skiiers will find the Harz Mountains relatively uninspiring, but cross-country skiing is a local passion that's shared by many visitors to the region. Travelling around on the steam trains here is also fun. Nearby are the historical towns of Goslar, Quedlinburg and Wernigerode, with their half-timbered houses.

Berlin

Berlin had modest beginnings as a trading centre in the 13th century, growing into a European powerhouse that hogged the 20th century stage. Since reunification in 1990, it has evolved into a dynamic, sexy and creative city where a surprising lightheartedness lurks beneath an austere exterior.

Berlin is the heart of modern Germany, with a stoic beat that echoes through grand public buildings, glorious museums and theatres, urbane restaurants, bustling pubs and raucous nightclubs. It's a city that thrives on change and that has made a virtue out of reinventing itself.

Entire new neighbourhoods, like Potsdamer Platz and the new government quarter, have sprung up along the strip once occupied by the notorious Berlin Wall that ran through the city like an ugly scar for 28 years. Since its collapse in 1989, the scar has healed so perfectly that it's now impossible to tell where the Wall once stood. Eastern districts like Prenzlauer Berg, Mitte and Friedrichshain, which were once run-down and neglected, have emerged as sizzling party hubs. But through all the perpetual change, Berlin remains down to earth and functions on a wonderfully human scale; it's a city that truly energises you.

Events

Germans love to party, and kick up their heels at everything from pagan harvest romps to black tie opera galas. The Winter Carnival (Fasching) season occurs throughout Germany, with big cities such as Cologne (Köln), Munich and Mainz erupting into commotion just before Ash Wednesday.

Germany's rich musical heritage is showcased in a plethora of festivals. Some towns concentrate on a particular composer, such as the Thuringian Bach Festival in Erfurt in March or the Richard Wagner Festival in Bayreuth each July, whereas others focus on a particular style. The jazz festivals in Stuttgart (July) and Berlin (early November) are lively and popular.

Autumn is a great time for harvest-inspired mayhem, especially in the Rhineland, where the five Rhine in Flames extravaganzas feature barges laden with fireworks. Mention must be made of Oktoberfest, Munich's annual lager frenzy, but it's a bit like being stuck in an endless soccer crowd and is more an example of mass tourism catering to the lowest liquid denominator than a display of German culture. Christmas markets, with their twinkling lights and steaming mulled wine (Glüwein) are embraced wholeheartedly by German families; they occur in Munich, Nuremberg, Lübeck, Berlin, Münster, Heidelberg, Rüdesheim and Stuttgart, amongst other places.

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