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The outline of the almost magical, fairytale remains of St Hilarion Castle will not become apparent until you are directly beneath it, so camouflaged is the structure with the cliffside. The castle ( kalesi in Turkish) has just enough hidden rooms, tunnels, overgrown gardens and steep staircases and paths to leave parents gasping for breath and children asking for more.
Local legend tells that the castle once had 101 rooms, the last of which was a secret garden belonging to a fairy 'queen'. The castle's real history is a bit more prosaic. This lofty fort is named after the monk Hilarion, who fled persecution in the Holy Land to live out the remainder of his life in a cave on the mountain that overlooks the plain of Kyrenia.
The view from the top is stunning, and on a clear day you can see the Taurus Mountains in Turkey, more than 100km (60mi) away.
tel info 0533 161 276
water taxi from Kyrenia
| full | Turkish Lira 6.00 |
This was Cyprus' most important pre-Christian city, and it's still the country's best archaeological site. You could easily spend a day here, checking out the fully restored Roman amphitheatre, the gymnasium with marble baths, and the fascinating mosaics.
Salamis' history provides a cross-section of the many civilisations that have contended with each other over thousands of years in the Mediterranean. Subject to the Assyrian, Persian and Ptolemaic empires at various times, its own high period was the 6th century BC. Most of the ruins are Byzantine or Roman, and they're scattered over 8km (5mi). A very pleasant beach fringes the site, so bring your bathers.
water taxi from Famagusta
| full | Turkish Lira 6.00 |
Less a castle and more a fortified tower house, Kolossi Castle perches incongruously between the vineyards and houses of the village of the same name. It is an interesting reminder of the rule of the Knights of St John in the 13th century, who started producing wine and processing sugar cane at a commandery that stood on this land.
The Mameluke raids of 1425-26 compromised the knights' prosperity and no doubt damaged the infrastructure. The current structure dates from 1454 and was probably built over the older fortified building.
The castle is accessible by a short drawbridge that was originally defended by a parapet high above, through which defenders would pour molten lead or boiling oil on the heads of unwanted visitors. Upon entering, you come across two large chambers, one with an unusually large fireplace and a spiral staircase that leads to another two chambers on the second level. The chambers are empty, so it is hard to imagine what they would have been like in their heyday. The only tangible remains of occupation is a mural of the crucifixion in the first-level main chamber. The spiral staircase leads to the roof, where the battlements, restored in 1933, lend a final touch.
B6
tel info 2593 4907
bus from Lemesos
car
| full | Cyprus Pound 0.75 |
Once enclosed by a star-shaped wall, Lefkosia's boundaries today are dictated by the UN's Green Line, which makes the city the world's only - and hopefully the last - divided capital. Lefkosia remains a friendly, laid-back place, with good restaurants, museums, and a lively art scene.
A visit here should give you a less touristy view of the country than you'll get if you stick to the coastal towns. The old town, inside the 16th-century Venetian walls, is the most interesting part of Lefkosia, with the city centre and municipal gardens just outside the wall on the south-west side.
The best of Lefkosia's museums are the Leventis Municipal, which traces the development of the city from prehistoric times; the Dragoman Hadzigeorgakis, which has mediocre exhibits but is housed in a gorgeous 15th-century mansion; and conversely, the Byzantine Museum, which is in the downright ugly Archbishop's Palace but has a superb collection of religious artwork.
On the Turkish side, check out the display of whirling-dervish memorabilia in the Turkish Museum near the Kyrenia gate. The 13th-century Selimiye Mosque is a sublime example of Gothic architecture. The Büyük Hammam, in the south of town, is the city's largest Turkish bath.
The Troödos region mountains, in the country's south, are unforgettable and may be the one place where you're free of package tourists. Popular with skiers, hikers and the heat-intolerant, Troödos is littered with 15th-century frescoed monasteries, wine-making villages and pleasant walking trails.
Kykkos Monastery, in the western Troödos, is the best known but most touristy monastery. Built in the 12th century, it's been completely renovated and contains a museum of religious icons. Asinou is probably the most beautiful of the area's monasteries, but it's a bit of a trek to get to it.
Platres is the main resort in the Troödos. In the south of the region, it was a colonial hill station and is still very popular with expats. It's nothing special, but there's lots of places to stay. Pedoulas, in the western Troödos, is another regional centre and home to the Church of Arhangelos Mihail. It's also one of the most convenient bases for visiting Kykkos. The Solea district, in the north, is scattered with picturesque small villages and monasteries, and is ideal if you're keen for a bit of cycling.
