'Shangri La', 'the Rooftop of the World' - locked away in its Himalayan fortress, Tibet has long exercised a siren's hold on the imagination of the West. Tibetans are used to hardship and, despite the disastrous Chinese occupation, they have managed to keep their culture and... Read the overview

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Getting there and away

The only airline that flies into Tibet is currently Air China, though it is reported that a new airline called Air Tibet will be created to operate flights in and out of Lhasa. Royal Nepal Airlines also has plans to fly the Kathmandu-Lhasa leg. Flights to and from Lhasa are frequently cancelled or delayed in the winter months, so if you are flying at this time give yourself a couple of days' leeway in Chengdu if you have a connecting flight.

There are flight connections to Lhasa from half a dozen Chinese cities, but 99% of travellers fly from Chengdu or Zhongdian, because arranging a permit is so much easier from there.

There are five major road routes to Lhasa and many travellers band together to rent a 4WD for the spectacular journey to Nepal. A daily rail link between Golmud and Lhasa began operating in 2006.

Getting around

Getting around Tibet can be difficult: the buses are often gasping their last, while travelling by hired 4WD can be expensive. Trucks tend to charge the same inflated prices as buses, but the Chinese government discourages foreigners from hitching rides. 'Road safety' is little more than a slogan. Tibetans tend to rely on prayer to facilitate a safe arrival - you might consider doing the same once you see the conditions.

Bicycling is possible, but is not without its hazards: cyclists in Tibet have died from road accidents, hypothermia and pulmonary oedema. Be very prepared.