Asia Travel Guides

Points of interest

Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute Snake Farm

It's touristy, yet completely compelling. This snake farm, one of only a few world-wide, was established in 1923 to breed snakes for antivenoms. The snake feeding and milking shows are a nice sideline; get the snake handlers to show you Thailand's most venomous snakes such as the king cobra, banded krait and Russell's viper.

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National Museum

Thailand's National Museum is the largest museum in Southeast Asia and an excellent place to learn about Thai art. All periods and styles are represented, from Dvaravati to Ratanakosin, and there's also a well-maintained collection of traditional musical instruments from Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Indonesia.

Other permanent exhibits include ceramics, clothing and textiles, woodcarving, royal regalia, Chinese art and weaponry. In addition to the exhibition halls, the museum grounds contain the restored Buddhaisawan (Phutthaisawan) Chapel.

Inside the chapel (built in 1795) are some well-preserved original murals and one of the country's most revered Buddha images, Phra Phuttha Sihing. Legend claims the image came from Ceylon, but art historians attribute it to the 13th-century Sukhothai period.

The museum buildings were originally built in 1782 as the palace of Rama I's viceroy, Prince Wang Na. Rama V turned it into a museum in 1884. Be aware that the museum isn't air-conditioned and that English signage is sporadic. Taking a foreign-language tour will contribute greatly to your appreciation of Thailand's rich artistic history.

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Royal Barges National Museum

The royal barges are long, fantastically ornamented boats used in ceremonial processions on the river. The largest is 50m (160ft) long and requires a 50-man rowing crew, plus seven umbrella bearers, two helmsmen and two navigators, a flagbearer, a rhythm-keeper and a chanter. The barges are kept in sheds on the Thonburi side of the river, next to Khlong Bangkok Noi.

Suphannahong, the king's personal barge, is the most important of the boats; made from a single piece of timber, it's the largest dugout in the world. The name means 'golden swan', and a huge swan's head has been carved into the bow. Lesser barges feature bows carved into other Hindu-Buddhist mythological shapes such as the naga (sea dragon) and the garuda (Vishnu's bird mount).

One of the best times to see the fleet in action on the river is during the royal kathîn ceremony at the end of phansâa (the Buddhist rains retreat, ending with an October or November new moon), when new robes are offered to the monastic contingent.

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Ancient City

Ancient City ( Meuang Boran), south of Bangkok, is billed as the largest open-air museum in the world. Over 100 of Thailand's most impressive monuments are rendered slightly less impressive in this 80-hectare (200-acre) collection of scale models. The grounds follow the basic shape of Thailand itself and the monuments are placed accordingly.

Visions of Las Vegas and its corny replicas of world treasures might spring to mind, but the Ancient City has architectural integrity and is a preservation site for classical buildings and art forms. It's a great place for long, undistracted bicycle rides (bikes can be rented from the admissions office), as it's usually quiet and never crowded. There's lots of open space for picnics.

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Wat Mahathat

Wat Mahathat is the most important centre of Buddhist learning in southeast Asia. Over the years, it has evolved into an informal community centre and is always bustling with visitors and monks. It holds meditation sessions and the English-speaking monks will help you feel more comfortable here than at any other temple in Bangkok.

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Arawy

Marked by a sign that reads 'Alloy' (meaning 'delicious'), this was one of Bangkok's first Thai non-meat restaurants, inspired by the strict diet of the ex-governor of Bangkok, Chamlong Srimuang. It's still one of the best, with none of the oil spills that mar much of the city's vegetarian cuisine. Squeezing in beside the TV and a box of palm oil is well worth it.

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Royal India

A legend in expat circles, Royal India prepares honest dishes from northern India, heavily influenced by Moghul or Persian flavours and spices. The restaurant has an in-the-know speakeasy quality. At lunchtime tables are shared between parties and travellers from different continents and generations sharing their globetrotting resumes.

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Khrua Nopparat

This plain Jane is filled with fluorescent lighting and cheap furniture but local Thai families and workmates crowd in for plates of yummy everyday Thai dishes at little more than street prices. Once you find a few favourites, pull up a chair alongside a taxi driver at one of the working-class canteens set up under a tree.

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Tokyo Joes

This narrow bar, reminiscent of a railroad car, is a house of worship for blues and jazz. Real regulars, mainly journos and other word-workers, warm the booths here swapping news of their own bands. The blues bands lean more toward Stevie Ray Vaughn than the Mississippi Blind Boys and on Sunday nights, the locally famous Soi Dogs takes the pulpit.

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Moon Bar at Vertigo

The elevator delivers you to the 59th floor and you weave your way through dimly lit hallways, waiting attendants, and narrow sets of stairs, emerging to the roar of Bangkok traffic far, far below and a view that will literally take your breath away. Come dressed up at sunset and grab a coveted seat to the right of the bar for more impressive views.

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Patravadi Theatre

A stylish open-air theatre, Patravadi is the brainchild of Patravadi Mejudhon, a famous Thai actress and playwright. The dance troupe performance is a blend of traditional Thai dance and modern choreography, music and costume. This is Bangkok's leading modern dance venue and the primary venue for the Bangkok International Fringe Festival, held in April/May.

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Events

With so many cultures and beliefs colliding in Bangkok, it's rare to be in town and not run into a festival of some description. This is especially true in the cooler months from November to February, but religious and cultural events occur year-round. Coronation Day is on 5 May - you may get a glimpse of the royals at Wat Phra Kaew. Also celebrated with some fervour in Bangkok is the King's Birthday on 5 December - some residents erect temporary shrines outside their houses or businesses.

On the cultural side of things, May sees the Royal Ploughing Ceremony halt traffic around Sanam Luang - this ancient Brahman ritual marks the official opening of the rice-planting season. The Thailand International Swan-Boat Races take place in Bangkok in October, and sees colourful crowds flocking to the Rama IX Bridge over the Chao Phraya River.

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