Asia Travel Guides

Points of interest

Brewerkz

Beer lovers may find their Singapore holiday goes no further than this large, friendly microbrewery beside the Singapore River. Not only does it offer eight excellent beers brewed on site, but the food and service is superb. Sit outside or, if you're into the small-bar atmosphere, venture inside to one of the rooms for pool, darts and sports on TV. The eight-beer sampler is a good way to find out what you like, and the SGD 3.00 lunchtime pints are a must - if you have nowhere else to be for the rest of the day.

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Gotham Penthouse

Dark and dripping with cool, the new kid on the club scene is making some noise with dance and techno tracks. There is a loungy Shag Room for some downtime or you can stare blissfully at the eerily lit tanks of jellyfish.

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Harry's

The one-time hang-out of Barings' bank breaker Nick Leeson, Harry's gets going early in the evening as corporate high-fliers and expats tell tall tales and do impromptu business. They're joined later in the evening by a mixed, upmarket crowd who come for the good jazz and city views. The upstairs bar is comfy for Sunday brunch.

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Sri Mariamman Temple

Paradoxically cast in the middle of Chinatown, the Sri Mariamman Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore. It is dedicated to the healing goddess Sri Mariamman, a favourite among Tamils for her rain-bringing inclinations and knack for curing what ails you. Each October the temple hosts the Thimithi Festival when devotees hot-foot it over burning coals.

Naraina Pillai, a trader who arrived in Singapore with Sir Stamford Raffles himself, first built a wooden temple here in 1827. The present stone building dates from 1862, though it's undergone countless renovations since then, usually in preparation for consecration ceremonies which happen every 12 years.

Far from the madding Pagoda and Smith St crowds, worshipers offer initial prayers at the Shrine of Sri Vinayagar - lord of beginnings and remover of obstacles - before presenting offerings (anything from fruit and incense to mouthwash mints) to other deities, or retreating to pray quietly in shadowy alcoves. Only the loincloth-clad priests are allowed to enter the temple's inner sanctum, where they bathe statues in coloured waters.

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Underwater World

Sentosa's saving grace, Gracie the dugong, is Underwater World's star performer. Leafy sea-dragons and wobbling Medusa jellyfish are mesmeric; stingrays and ten-foot sharks cruise above Ocean Colony's submerged glass tubes.

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Esplanade - Theatres on the Bay

Architecturally out-of-this-world, the Esplanade arts and theatre development opened in 2002, the cornerstone of a government programme to turn Singapore into an arts hub. Aiming for the same impact as the Sydney Opera House, the architects wanted to challenge ingrained Singaporean conservatism, and they sure pushed the right buttons.

The controversial exterior is an assembly of variously angled aluminium shades, with shapes that reference natural geometries and traditional Asian reed weavings, maximising natural light while shielding the glass roof from the sun. At night, internal lighting sets the building aglow.

Whatever you think of the design, there's no doubting the Esplanade's success as an arts venue, with a non-stop programme of international and local dance, opera, classical music, jazz, cultural festivals, puppetry, recitals, installations and exhibitions wowing the masses.

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Asian Civilisations Museum

Inside the grand old Empress Place building (named in honour of Queen Victoria), this museum is a must for any Singapore visit - escape the humidity, put your watch in your pocket and enter a timeless realm. The museum hosts touring and special exhibitions in addition to its 10 thematic galleries over three levels, exploring traditional aspects of pan-Asian culture and civilisation.

The atmospherically lit interior shifts focus between exquisite, well-displayed artefacts from Southeast Asia, China, India, Sri Lanka and even Turkey, the emphasis on regions most strongly connected with Singapore's ethnic make-up.

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Singapore Botanic Gardens

It sounds like an experiment from Frankenstein, but 'Connecting Plants with People' is the Botanic Gardens' catchcry. Wide green spaces like these are rare in Singapore, but they are perfect for soothing the soul. The National Orchid Garden is a must-see, and the free open-air music concerts on the first Sunday of the month can be fun.

Meander through the frangipanni collection, the Evolution Garden's prehistoric plants or plunge into the 'original Singaporean jungle', a small slice of the kind of rainforest that once blanketed the island.

Red jump-suited maintenance brigades patrol with mowers, blowers and trimmers to keep the jungle at bay, while pre-wedding photographers dab beads of sweat from nervous grooms' brows. At night, boughs are lit up for a magical effect.

The National Orchid Garden is also here, with over 60,000 plants and a 'cool house' showcasing orchids from cooler climes.

Call ahead to arrange a tour.

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Magic of Chongqing Hot Pot

Done out like an old Chongqing fisherman's cafe, with stone floors and a no-nonsense approach to food, this enormous eatery is the best place in the area for traditional cook-it-yourself spicy Sichuan-style steamboat. You can choose from an extensive MSG-free menu which includes a range of seafood, meat, eggs and vegetables.

It gets very popular on weekends when the quality of service takes a dip and as a foreigner you may find yourself ignored, so go during the week.

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Coriander Leaf

So, there's no riverside view and the decor makes it hard to forget you're in a hotel restaurant, but man oh man is the food fine! The sea bass with tomatoes, coriander rice and spicy marmalade is really something special while the Brazilian hot chocolate pudding is positively evil.

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Andhra Curry

This easy-going restaurant prides itself on fiery recipes from the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. Order up a traditional vegetarian wedding dish like the Andhra Hyderabadi biryani (rice dish), or absorb a flavoursome punch from the lamb dry curry. Be warned - on Sunday nights it's mayhem.

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Events

The multicultural people of Singapore celebrate with the roar of a Chinese dragon at New Year, feasting for the living and the dead, and dancing with the fervour of religious passion.

Because they follow the lunar calendar, the dates of Chinese, Hindu and Muslim festivals vary from year to year. Chinese New Year, in January or February, is welcomed in with dragon dances, parades and much good cheer. Chinatown is lit up with fireworks and night markets. Vesak Day in May celebrates Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death. It is marked by various events, including the release of caged birds to symbolise the liberation of captive souls. The Dragon Boat Festival, held in May or June, commemorates the death of a Chinese patriot who drowned himself as a protest against government corruption. It is celebrated with rice dumplings and boat races across Marina Bay.

The Chinese Festival of the Hungry Ghosts is usually celebrated in September. This is when the souls of the dead are released for feasting and entertainment on earth. Chinese operas are performed for them and food is offered; the ghosts eat the spirit of the food but thoughtfully leave the substance for mortal celebrants. During Ramadan, food stalls are set up in the evening in the Arab St district, near the Sultan Mosque. Hari Raya Puasa, the end of Ramadan in November, is marked by three days of joyful celebrations and often coincides with the Hindu Deepavali (or Diwali) festival, when Little India is festooned with lights. The festival of Thaipusam is one of the most dramatic Hindu festivals and is now banned in India. Devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing body-piercing. In Singapore, devotees march in procession from the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple on Serangoon Rd to the Chettiar Hindu Temple on Tank Rd.

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