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There are few direct flights to Nepal, which means most travellers from Europe, North America and Australia have to change aircraft and/or airline en route. Nepal's only international airport is Kathmandu's Tribhuvan Airport - several airlines fly here with a stop in western Europe or the Gulf, or you can fly into India and change to a local shuttle. If you want to see the mountains as you fly into Kathmandu, make sure you sit on the right-hand side of the plane. The departure tax for international flights is NPR 1695.00 ,, or NPR 1356.00 to destinations on the Indian subcontinent, payable in Nepali rupees.
The classic overland routes between Nepal and India are still popular. Buses are usually the quickest and easiest form of transport between Nepal and India. There are five main crossing points that are open to foreigners, but most people cross at Sunauli-Bhairawa, Birganj-Raxaul Bazaar or Kakarbhitta-Panitanki. The Sunauli border crossing is convenient for Varanasi or Delhi, the Birganj crossing is convenient for Kolkata, and Kakarbhitta is the obvious choice for Darjeeling or Sikkim. A trickle of travellers enter Nepal at the Mahendrenagar-Banbassa border crossing in the extreme west of Nepal, which is handy for Delhi and the hills of Uttaranchal and Himachal Pradesh. The crossing between Nepal and Tibet via Kodari is open to organised groups but not to individual travellers heading north. Be prepared to make alternative plans if using this route - landslides regularly make it impassable during the monsoon.
Royal Nepal Airlines has an extensive domestic network and reasonable prices, but its aircraft are ancient and the booking system is erratic. Half a dozen private airlines offer similar routes in newer planes for only a little more. Whoever you fly with, be aware that flights are routinely cancelled due to bad weather, security problems or industrial action. It's advisable to book domestic flights a week in advance and keep re-confirming your ticket just to make sure you don't slip off the passenger list if the flight is full. Airlines only accept payment in hard currency from visitors.
Public buses are the main form of ground transportation and are incredibly cheap, incredibly uncomfortable and tediously slow. Expect to average about 30km (18mi) per hour anywhere in the hills. Buses ply almost every paved road (not that there are many), as well as some of the unpaved ones, and nearly every visitor comes back with horror stories about 'almost' plunging into a ravine. The near escapes are only the tip of the iceberg. Hundreds of locals die in bus smashes every year and travellers are strongly advised to avoid bus travel at night. Safety is generally better on the dedicated tourist buses that connect Kathmandu, Pokhara and Chitwan. If you don't want to share your journey with farm produce and livestock, this is definitely the way to go.
A metre-gauge train line runs from Janakpur to the Indian border. But foreigners cannot cross here.
You cannot hire self-drive cars, but you can hire a car with a local driver, which is probably safer anyway. Small motorcycles can be rented in Kathmandu and Pokhara but the roads can be deadly.
Bike-riding is quickly gaining popularity with visitors for short jaunts; mountain bikes can be rented in Kathmandu, Pokhara and Lumbini and cycling can be quicker than getting around by local buses, especially in the Kathmandu Valley.
Walking is still the most important and most reliable method of getting from A to B and for moving cargo. In most of Nepal walking is the only option. More goods are carried by human porters than by every other form of transport combined.
Local transport in the Kathmandu Valley and around Pokhara includes metered and unmetered taxis, buses, tempos (three-wheeled buses), auto-rickshaws, bicycle rickshaws and bicycles.
