It's a shame Goa comes burdened with a reputation for louche living, because there's so much more to it than sun, sand and psychedelia. The allure of Goa is that it remains quite distinct from the rest of India and is small enough to be grasped and explored in a way that... Read the overview

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Getting there and away

The number of charter flights headed to Goa is increasing every year. The vast majority come from the UK and Europe. You can fly direct to Goa from the UK on a seat-only charter flight or on a package trip that includes accommodation. Be aware that it is illegal to enter on a scheduled flight and out on a charter flight, and vice versa: if you enter on a charter flight, you must also leave on one.

Dabolim Airport, Goa's only domestic and international airport, is in Dabolim, just outside Vasco da Gama. Numerous domestic airlines fly here from major Indian cities - as well as Indian Airlines and Jet Airways, new budget airlines such as Kingfisher Airlines and SpiceJet are providing competition.

The 760km (465mi) Konkan Railway links Mumbai with Goa (10hr) and south to Mangalore (15hr). Private companies still offer the dreaded super deluxe video buses from Panaji and Margao to Mumbai (15-20hr), Mysore (16hr) and Bangalore. Buses also head east from Goa to Hampi (11hr).

Getting around

The best way to get around Goa is to hire a motorcycle or scooter, though be sure to carry the necessary paperwork (licence, registration and insurance) with you at all times because checks on foreigners are a lucrative source of baksheesh (kickbacks) for the police. If you don't know how to ride, motorcycle taxis are a legitimate and fun way of scooting between towns. Crowded buses ply between the main towns - they're dirt cheap and full of locals masquerading as sardines.

Regular taxis and autorickshaws can also take you around and between most towns. Bargain hard.