brunei
A cashed-up anachronism with oil to burn.
A cashed-up anachronism with oil to burn.
Tasek Merimbun, also known as Merimbun Heritage Park, is 27km (17mi) inland from Tutong, and contains Brunei's largest lake. It's a pretty, tranquil spot surrounded by forest, with a couple of walking trails and two islands which can be visited using the services of local boatmen. The blackwater lake is the only one of its kind in Borneo.
(27km (17mi) SE of Tutong)
tel info 884 9110
car
This sprawling amusement park was commissioned by the sultan in 1994 as a gift to his people. Entry was free until 2000, but when it started charging, locals lost interest. Now many rides languish, waiting for spare parts or to be re-insured but it's still an intriguing experience to wander round the massive semi-deserted grounds in the evening.
If the dodgems and laser guns don't capture your imagination, try catching a quick glimpse of the sultan's palace or have tea or dinner at the über-luxurious Empire Hotel nearby.
Jerudong
tel info 261 1894
bus 55 or 57 from BSB
| full | Brunei Dollar 15.00 |
| child | Brunei Dollar 5.00 |
Brunei's main national park is worth seeing, but sluggish permit procedures mean it's easier to go on an organised tour than independently. Go to Bangar's tourist office and try to haggle for a spare seat when tour groups come through. The park has steps through the jungle and a canopy walkway provides a high-level perspective on the rainforest.
tel info 238 1687
small boat longboat from Batang Duri
Jerudong is the playground of the sultan, where he indulges in his favourite pastime, polo. Jerudong Park is a huge complex with a polo stadium, luxurious stables, a golf course and trapshooting and croquet facilities. Unfortunately, you'll only be allowed in if you've been invited.
The hoi-polloi head to Jerudong for the Playground, a massive amusement park with a huge range of rides. Behind the park is Jerudong Beach, with stalls selling fish and some great cliffs. Jerudong is just north of the main highway between Bandar Seri Begawan and Tutong - it's best visited by car.
Bandar, the only town in Brunei of any size, seems too big for its 60,000 inhabitants. It's a neat, clean, modern city with wide roads and overstated public buildings and home to Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, one of the most impressive modern mosques in the East.
Originally built in 1958, the giant golden-domed mosque stands close to the Brunei River in its own artificial lagoon. The interior is just as luxurious, with Italian marble walls, luxurious carpeting and an elevator.
Kampung Ayer is a centuries-old collection of 28 water villages built on stilts in the Brunei River. Around 30,000 people live in this area, which is a strange mix of modern and ancient.
Bandar Seri Begawan has a couple of excellent museums: the traditionally-oriented Brunei Museum and the lavish Malay Technology Museum, which includes exhibits on water village architecture.
If you're looking for nightlife in Bandar, it's pretty scant and the streets are deserted by 21:00 .
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