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 Monday, 23 November 2009
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Asia Travel Guides

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afghanistan

Afghanistan's beauties have been swamped by tyranny and war.

Friendly, beautiful Afghanistan was once well known on the backpacking circuit as the place to stop for unparalleled hospitality, fantastic food, great hiking and...um...OK, we'll say it, that legendary hashish. Things, sadly, have changed a lot. Read the overview
Fairly common scene, downtown Kabul

Getting there and away

With the reopening of Kabul International Airport to civilian traffic, the easiest way to Afghanistan is by air. On touching down there's a (mostly) orderly queue for immigration, but as a foreigner you'll often get fast-tracked. After this, there's a separate booth for passport registration, before the scrum of the baggage hall. Customs checks are mostly in name only.

Officials are similarly laid-back if you're entering overland. Most of Afghanistan's borders are so porous, you'll be generally looked on as more a novelty than a bureaucratic hindrance. Bear in mind that Afghanistan has 30 minutes' time difference with all its neighbours. Some borders are closed on certain days, and everything grinds to a halt on Friday lunch time.

Getting around

The national carrier, Ariana Afghan Airlines, Ariana offers a comprehensive domestic service, but demand definitely outstrips supply, so book as far in advance as you can. A private airline, KamAir, offers an alternative service. Neither hold fantastic safety records.

Failing an airline seat, your next best bet is a minibus; Afghanistan is held together by the indestructible fleet of Toyota HiAces that ply the attrocious roads across the country.

Yellow-and-white shared taxis are a popular way to travel between towns. They leave from the same terminal as minibuses. They're faster than minibuses and, with fewer seats, fill up and leave sooner. Fares are around a quarter to a third more expensive than the equivalent minibus.

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