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Las Geel is undisputably Somaliland's pièce de résistance. Hundreds of magnificent neolithic rock art paintings in perfect condition adorn the walls of several interconnected caves and shelters. Some paintings exceed one metre in length and their state of preservation is exceptional.
Were it not in Somaliland, this fantastic site would immediately be declared a World Heritage Site and swamped with masses of tourists. Sadly (well, not quite), as long as Somaliland is not recognised by the international community, all attempts at protecting Las Geel will be unsuccessful and it will remain a hidden gem.
(Somaliland)
car
Hargeisa still bears the scars of decades of civil war but it is emerging from the strife, energised and full of good vibes. Although tourist sights are rare, just being the only foreigner wandering in the streets is a astonishing experience. People are genuinely surprised to see a real 'tourist', so be prepared to be the focus of attention.
Despite the lack of visitors, Hargeisa has a surprisingly good tourist infrastructure: decent hotels with English-speaking staff, a couple of tasty restaurants, Internet cafe's, tea shops, markets... but no alcohol. It's a free economy, and it shows. The streets are bustling, the roads busy and the air thick with a very bearable cacophony of mobile phone ring tones, vehicle horns and calls to prayers. Throw in the mandatory dust and you'll have an idea of present-day Hargeisa's attire.
(Somaliland)
bus from Berbera, Sheekh, Burcao and the Ethiopian border
The best sights in Hargeisa are its lively markets. Buy yourself a durable souvenir at the camel and goat market on the outside of town or something a little more gaudy at the gold market, just near the Oriental hotel. In the city's main street you'll find a flurry of goldsmiths, all selling the precious metal, wrought into necklaces and bracelets and sold by the gram.
(Somaliland)
The journey from Berbera to Hargeisa is beautiful and there are some majestic sea cliffs along the coast. Unfortunately this is perhaps the best thing about Berbera, whose bustling commercial city-port has little to interest most travellers.
Mogadishu has a Mad Max, post-apocalypse feel. Heavily armed clans protect their patches of turf by prowling the ruins of this once beautiful city in 'technicals' - pick-up trucks with a dirty great machine gun mounted on the back.
As a result of the civil war all the old attractions probably don't exist any more, or at best are interesting ruins. The Hammawein, or Xamar Weyne, is the original city of Mogadishu and was once one of the most beautiful sights on the east coast of Africa.
Although Mogadishu was founded in the 10th century AD by Arab merchants and was ruled by sultans until the 20th century, the city is now about as far from the glories of its 13th-century heyday as it's possible to get. Just before his overthrow, former president Siad Barre ordered his presidential guards to flush out rebels from the capital. As a result, they shelled Mogadishu continuously for four weeks, leaving 75% of it in ruins and an estimated 50,000 people killed. Mogadishu therefore has that Mad Max, post-apocalypse feel, a city where heavily armed clans protecting their patches of turf prowl the ruins of a once beautiful city in 'technicals' - pick-up trucks with a dirty great machine gun mounted on the back. So don't worry about where you're going; worry about who's going to come with you - a gang of armed guards protects against kidnap. As a result of the civil war all the old attractions probably don't exist any more, or at best are interesting ruins. The Hammawein, or Xamar Weyne, is the original city of Mogadishu and was once one of the most beautiful sights on the east coast of Africa.
The ruins of the Roman Catholic cathedral, museum and Al Aruba Hotel are pretty remarkable, while the Bakara Market is the infamous location where US Rangers and special forces units were pinned down for over 15 hours (as documented in the Hollywood killfest Black Hawk Down). You might also like to visit the livestock market, Suuqa Xoolaha, early in the morning, but avoid the Gun Market, the most dangerous place in town.
Gezira Beach was once a popular beach with expats and Somalis, while further along the coast are a number of isolated coves; one is called Shark's Bay - no prizes for guessing why.
