Rwanda once evoked images of gorillas and breathtaking mountain views, until the country was devastated by the attempted genocide of the Tutsi tribe in 1994. These days, much of the country is rebuilt, the economy resurrected, and travellers can move around much more safely. Read the overview

Pictures

Inspiration

Getting there and away

We strongly advise against crossing by land into Burundi, as the situation in northern Burundi is extremely volatile. The main crossing point is between Butare (Rwanda) and Kayanza (Burundi), though bear in mind that people are regularly killed on this road. The road between Cyangugu and Bujumbura that goes via Bugarama (Rwanda), Congo (Zaïre) and Luhwa (Burundi) is perhaps even more dangerous and should be avoided entirely.

At the time of research, travelling overland to Congo (Zaïre) was virtually impossible due to the presence of rebel factions. If the situation improves, the two main crossings will again be between Gisenyi (Rwanda) and Goma in Congo (Zaïre); and also Cyangugu (Rwanda) and Bukavu in Congo (Zaïre).

To get to Tanzania from Kigali, take a shared taxi or minibus to Kibungo ( USD 2.00 , 1½ hours), and then a minibus ( USD 1.00 , one hour) to the border town of Rusumo (there's cheap accommodation on the Tanzanian side). Once across the border, jump on any form of public transport - often a pick-up - to Ngara. From Ngara, catch a bus ( USD 10.00 , 12 hours) to Mwanza. The road to Mwanza is mostly good but has some rough sections. If you wish to cross to Uganda the main border crossing-point is located between Kigali and Kabale, via Gatuna (Rwanda) and Katuna (Uganda). Those travelling direct between Kigali and Kampala can travel with the bus services that both depart at 06:00 from the Okapi Hotel. Between Kigali and Kabale there are lots of minibuses, but a change of vehicle at the border is involved. There are regular minibuses from Kigali to Gatuna ( USD 3.00 , 1½ hours). Across the border in Katuna there are minibuses ( USD 0.50 ) and special hire taxis ( USD 4.00 for the car) to Kabale. There's a second crossing between Ruhengeri (Rwanda) and Kisoro (Uganda), via Cyanika. From Ruhengeri to Kisoro via Cyanika is considered safe, but check the situation carefully in Kampala or Kisoro. Infrequent minibuses link either side of the border with Ruhengeri ( USD 1.00 , 25km/16mi) and Kisoro ( USD 0.60 , 12km/7.5mi).

Getting around

The country's bus network comprises large numbers of modern minibuses, plus a few government vehicles that roam over a well-maintained system of sealed main roads. The best time to get on the buses is from early morning to early afternoon. After about 15:00 they run less frequently and the fares go up substantially. Travelling by bus (or by any other mode of road transport for that matter) entails having to endure frequent military checkpoints, but these are usually straightforward affairs.

Hire-cars are almost as scarce as mountain gorillas or uncultivated land in Rwanda. To flush one out, you'll need to head to either Kigali or the northern town of Ruhengeri and check out local tourist offices and travel agencies; it should cost you on average around USD 50.00 per day for a 2WD and USD 100.00 for a 4WD. Keep in mind however that the price of petrol in Rwanda is exorbitantly expensive. Also, while the country's main roads are in pretty good condition, many side-roads are not, particularly during the wet season. As a general rule, you should avoid driving at night unless you happen to have infra-red vision and the reflexes of Bruce Lee (when he was alive, of course).

Hitching is not a difficult prospect in Rwanda, thanks to the large numbers of non-governmental organisation (NGO) vehicles that regularly track around the country. The extra good news is that you're unlikely to be asked for money for the ride, usually just conversation.