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Spectacular Nyungwe Forest covers 970 sq km (374 sq mi) and is one of the largest protected montane rainforests in Africa, easily the equal of Kibale Forest in Uganda. It offers superb views of the volcanoes of the Parc National des Virunga to the north as well as numerous opportunities to view rare primates, including colobus monkeys and chimpanzees.
The forest is home to huge groups of black-and-white Angola colobus monkeys, several groups of chimpanzees, 50 species of other mammals, 270 species of tree, 275 species of bird, and an astonishing variety of orchids and butterflies.
The cost includes guided or unguided walks on any of the colour-coded forest trails and camping at Uwinka. Chimpanzee tracking starts early in the morning, and colobus walks leave at twice daily. There is no law against spotting primates on an ordinary walk, but there is a better chance of sightings on a guided primate walk.
The park headquarters is at Uqinka, where there is an information centre and a small campsite.
(SW Rwanda)
bus from Butare or Kamembe
bus 4/5hr from Kigali
This is the definitive location in Africa to track the rare mountain gorilla and also a great place to track golden monkeys. The national park, which runs along the border between DR Congo and Uganda, is one of the most stunning sights in the region and is home to a chain of seven volcanoes, the highest, Karisimbi, maxes out at more than 4500m (14,764ft)
On the bamboo-and rainforest-covered slopes of the volcanoes are some of the last remaining sanctuaries of the mountain gorilla, which was studied in depth first by George Schaller and, more recently, by Dian Fossey. An encounter with these beautiful creatures, which despite their size are remarkably nonaggressive, is a magical experience that is absolutely worth the stiff price tag.
Bookings for gorilla permits can be made through the ORTPN tourist office in Kigali or a Rwandan tour company. The departure point for all visits is the ORTPN office in Ruhengeri.
The park also offers travellers the chance to trek through the volcanic chain.
(NW Rwanda)
www.rwandatourism.com/parks.htm
guided tour only
mini-bus 2hr from Kigali to Ruhengeri
Welcome to the Costa del Kivu! Gisenyi is a ritzy resort town for rich Rwandans and resident foreigners. The views over Lake Kivu and Nyiragongo to the northwest are magnificent, though be warned that the volcano blew its top in early 2002, consuming much of neighbouring Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Gisenyi is a secluded retreat for the country's well-to-do, which means that most of the action centres on the town's posh hotels and restaurants. If you're looking for something to do however, you can check out the Primus Brewery, about 7km (4.3mi) out of town along a stunning coastal road. Swimming and sunbathing on the area's lovely beaches is also a nice way to spend the day, though be sure to ask locals before plunging in, owing to dangerous pockets of volcanic gases.
(W Rwanda)
bus from Kigali
Flowing along and down the sides of a ridge in what appears to be the exact centre of Rwanda is the country's capital, Kigali. The city is small but big on attractiveness; it's dotted with a wide variety of colourful flora and with a number of viewpoints looking out over Rwanda's other 999 hills.
Besides the natural splendour of its verdant location, there's not a lot of sightseeing material in Kigali; in fact, just the opposite applies to the parts of the city that have yet to undergo architectural rehabilitation from the damage inflicted during the last round of civil conflict.
However, Kigali does offer a good number of eateries, clubs and liquid refreshment joints and is a good place to indulge the senses. The nightlife in Kigali is accessible with a fair degree of safety, though just like most other African cities it still pays to be cautious and taxis are recommended after dark.
For a taste of grim reality, a drive of just under an hour from the capital will bring you to either of the genocide memorials at Nyamata and Ntarama. Be warned, though, that these aren't memorials in the polished, symbolic sense, but are the bare bones of places that bore witness to the butchery of 1994.
The words 'relaxation' and 'Rwanda' would be thought by many to be mutually exclusive. However, relaxation is precisely what attracts the wealthier Rwandans, expatriates and travellers looking to splurge to the lakeside resort town of Gisenyi.
Situated on the eastern shore of the enormous Lake Kivu, Gisenyi is stuffed full of manicured villas, salubrious hotels and the requisite nightclubs. It's a glitzy exercise in leisure amid much harsher African environs, but you'll enjoy yourself if you leave your reservations at the door.
Gisenyi owes its existence to the stunning Lake Kivu, which provides it with expansive views and swimmable, sandy beaches - whereas in other areas of the lake there are places where volcanic gases pose a threat to anything that breathes. As you'd expect at a lake, there are lots of watersports and beer-laden boat trips to the nearby Primus Brewery to finish off a long hard day. Meanwhile, to the south of town is the impressive 328ft-high (100m-high) waterfall, Les Chutes de Ndaba. Water isn't the only thing to occupy you here, however, as a swivel to the northwest reveals the magnificent 11,381ft-high (3470m-high) Nyiragongo volcano.
