Points of interest

Dyingerey Ber Mosque

Of Timbuktu's three great mosques, Dyingerey Ber is the oldest, dating from the early 14th century. The interior is a forest of 100 sturdy pillars, and there are a series of interconnecting rooms with holes in the walls through which worshippers, unable to hear the imam, could look through into the main prayer hall to see when to pray.

You can go into this mosque, west of Place de l'Indépendance, but sometimes only with a guide.

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Musée National

The Musée National houses a stunning collection of masks, statues, textiles, archaeological artefacts and a fine model of the Djenné mosque. The grounds are tranquil, and the excellent bookshop and restaurant make it relaxing place to spend an afternoon. French and English-speaking guides can be arranged.

The museum holds an impressive collection of Dogon masks and there are also hats and loincloths belonging to the mysterious Tellum, the small people who once inhabited the Bandiagara escarpment.

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Admission

Djenné's Monday Mosque Market

This colourful market takes place in front of Djenné's fairytale mud mosque, the largest mud-built structure in the world. By mid- to late-morning, Djenné is awash with traders selling everything from cloth to calabashes, spices to spaghetti, pottery to pungent local foods and prize goats.

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Transport

Attractions

Falaise de Bandiagara

A hiking trek to the Dogon country, travelling the length of the Falaise de Bandiagara or Bandiagara Escarpment, is likely to be the highlight of any visit to Mali. The Dogon have a fascinatingly complex and elaborate culture and are well known for their traditional art work.

The treks are a great way to get a first-hand look at the pink sandstone houses and granaries carved out of the cliff face, and to gather tips on gardening in very small spaces. The Dogon actually grow their crops in small plots on cliff ledges.

If you are there in April you can see the spectacular five-day Fête des Masques, which is the Dogon's major festival involving liberal amounts of dancing and millet beer. The other regular event in Dogon life is market day, which occurs every five days. These are lively affairs that don't get into full swing until around noon and are usually greased with a bit of a joke-telling session, some local gossip, and the ubiquitous millet beer.

Bamako

You'd expect the capital city of one of the poorest countries in the world to be sullen and down-at-heel, but Bamako is a brash cacophony of music, motorbikes, and people buying, selling and trading under the hot midday sun. Despite its problems it's got chutzpah.

You can find everything in the new version of the Grande Marché, from indigo cloth to gold to tapes of African music. There's also a traditional medicine vendor should you find yourself running short of travel essentials such as porcupine quills, dried birds and monkey heads.

The Musée National is one of the best ethnographic museums in West Africa with architecture inspired by the mud brick structures in Djenné and a wide range of tapestries, masks, funeral objects and weapons. The museum is desperately trying to hold onto its cultural treasures but is fighting an uphill battle against the illegal sales of ancient terracotta figurines in Djenné. Save your francs for the legal stuff.